Casa Foffani and Cantina: b & b in Trivignano Udinese
It all depends on which door you choose to enter: Casa Foffani is somewhat multi-faceted.
For example, if you enter the iron gate on the square, you will find yourself in front of the two dogs, one old and big, and the other little one, hairy and cheerful. You arrive in the first courtyard, and you realize that you have entered a parallel world where time is put on standby, suspended, interrupted in its flow.
If you enter instead from the Ancient Cantinone, you just look at the ground to realize the passage you are doing: an original rustic floor, old 400 years, which has seen things that we humans do not even imagine. And then you get in front of that courtyard: hidden, secret, just for your eyes. Antique roses climbing up to the roof.
You must adapt yourself, because making noise in that courtyard is almost impossible. And at the end give in, enter into contemplative mode. Keep your eyes on the modern mosaic stems of Maestro Candussio, and begin to listen to the quiet that speaks to you. You walk along the path, and immediately you catch the trunk of the ancient wisteria. If you are lucky enough to pass by at the end of April, when it blooms, you will find yourself under a floral miracle: a soft lilac tent that reaches the top of the tree. But what arrangements have they ever made, that wisteria and that plane tree, to decide to make a common life like that? One wonders if they are secretly married.
Continue along the path, keeping an eye on the eternal endless roots of the wisteria, always looking for other symbiotic alliances with other trees, and gradually, long, until wine production cellar. Even if it is not September, the scent of wine that is processed or decanted hovers very often lively and fruity in the air all around. Joy for the nostrils, and yet another dive out of time.
After the cellar, the garden opens up in front of you. In every season, there is something to see or to eat. In spring the lawn before the first mowing of grass is covered with blue, many are the forget-me-nots. And then a river of iris, the old roses, the old pear tree. In every season, its fruits: cherries, apples, pears, apricots, figs, kiwis, persimmons and medlars. The season of pears and persimmons is particularly dear to the smallest hairy, which in those moments is rediscovered fruitarian.
Hidden is the password at Casa Foffani. Even the garden, although large, is hidden. From the street you can barely see it. The rule is always that: you have to enter the square, and pass the time barrier. Enter inside. Let the House decide that you are a welcome guest, and adopt yourself. Only later do you realize everything, because it is the House itself that makes you feel.
On the right in the first part of the garden there are unusual "presences": silent, motionless in the grass, and very lazy. Weird animals. Maybe not even real animals. In short, "presences".
At the bottom of the garden is the vineyard, the place where wine lives before it becomes wine. There the magical plants absorb the elements, they talk with the rain, the wind, the evening breeze in the summer, the storms ... and then the fog, the snow. They absorb the sky and the sun. And the grapes know its stories.
Go back through the other courtyard, the open and larger one, where the tractors pass. There is also the legendary old blue Ford, still active in the countryside. The years are not said, but brings them well. When they shine it, it still makes a good impression.
And then again the old barn where concerts are held: small groups of fans gather in the summer evenings, live music and many birds in the background. Inside the walls, Casa Foffani flows according to its own time.
It is a small, collected world, a world inside the outside world. An ancient bourgeois house, in a well-preserved rural context. Walls impregnated with memories. Quiet walls. A lot of silence.
Out there, life moves running and with eternal impatience. In here, always walk on time, resting your feet on the ground. Welcome!
The story of Casa Foffani
The village of Clauiano is mainly made up of small palazzetti and eighteenth-century houses or transformed in that period, and constitutes as a whole an excellent example of traditional and rural Friulian architecture free from destructive interventions or conflicting insertions in the main streets. Among the most prominent buildings, on the square, is the master complex Calligaris now Foffani. The main house and the attached buildings are today almost in the same configuration reproduced by an ancient map of 1774, and has always been inhabited by the Calligaris Family, as evidenced by documents dated 1608 and 1687. Today, the only owner is Giovanni Foffani, son of Maria Calligaris.
The rural house and the farm
The Dominican house dates back to the XV / XVI century. The complex is an example of rural architecture and bourgeois, historically destined to farm and in particular to the wine production (officially documented since 1789) and breeding silkworms. In the 1704 a part of the courtyard was ceded, followed by the "turret", today used as a pretty B & B, with the old wooden stairs and the stuccos of the period on the ceilings of the first floor. Also at that time, other annexes were built, the boundary wall and the entrance to the current Piazza was moved. In the nineteenth century, the facade of the dominican building was covered in rustic ashlar at half height.
During the Second World War, the house was located before the German command and then the American one.
The dominican complex Foffani, now a winery, offers a valid testimony of archietectonic reality linked to that rural and bourgeois tradition rather than that of noble building. In a dominant position on the town square, it is directly connected to the vineyards behind. Therefore, the agricultural vocation does not go out, even after 400 years.
Memories of the Second World War
From the notes of Giovanni Foffani: This house and the war
Maria Teresa Calligaris lived in this house with her father Piero, my grandfather, mother Ida, my grandmother, and her sister Nelsa during the second world war.
But she and her family did not live there alone. The house was soon requisitioned, except for two rooms, by the Germans, who made it the seat of the zone command and remained there for long years, until the retreat.
Grandfather's family had lunch in the dining room and the Germans in the kitchen, bigger. I do not have particular stories of those times, except that he kept on going around the fields with the dogs, but always with the shotgun loaded on his shoulder ... if some malicious person had presented himself. But he never used it.
During the day the soldiers sometimes went into the barn to shoot at the walls, which still bear the marks of those bullets. In the evening they retired to their bedrooms, and I believe that cohabitation was, after all, very civil, always respecting each other's distance.
After the episode of the attempted execution of hostages in front of the church and the hasty escape (or the capture, I do not know) of the Germans, the house continued to be occupied, but by the Americans, with whom they immediately established a sympathy relationship. It is strange to think that the soldiers of the two armies had been, at different times, both allies of Italy.
Toward the end of the war my father, who came by motorcycle from Padua, sometimes appeared after two years in Albania with the Alpia Val Leogra Battalion of Julia. In the city they were hungry, and one day it was historic that the maid told the morning that "the professor ate a whole cheese form taken from the cellar".
The services of Casa Foffani and Cantina
Guided tours of the company, single or group, by reservation, with an adjoining dip in the typical atmosphere of Casa Foffani. Snacks of various kinds, cold, based on local meats and cheeses, which in the summer can be enjoyed outdoors, in the romantic main courtyard.
Tasting of our wines, which is usually requested at the same time as the group visit to the company. We explain in detail the terroir, the different production techniques, and the individual wines in depth, so as to communicate and to perceive the characteristics of the vines, particularity of the vintage, the story behind every wine and above all his emotional personality.
Because if you do not get excited by drinking a good wine, then you miss an important part of the pleasure that transmits this ancient drink. The tasting is always professional, and is available in several languages and different levels of detail.
The B & B
B & B: two rooms each with a bathroom, in the ivy covered tower, overlooking the roofs of the village and the large garden. The two rooms are bookable either individually, both together as an apartment and using the small kitchen. Located in the center of Friuli, this small B & B is one excellent starting point for family holidays and for those who want to explore the Friulian Land, given the proximity to all the main historical and tourist attractions: seaside resorts such as Grado or Lignano, art cities such as Venice, the Friuli mountains, Trieste, Udine, Cividale, Spilimbergo ... all destinations within easy reach of Clauiano, for a holiday that knows no boredom.
The anthroposophical painter Margherita Gabrielli
Inside the company is housed in the ancient barn also the complete work of the anthroposophical painter Margherita Gabrielli, open only by reservation and for small groups. Interesting artistic path for anyone who is receptive to this particular kind of painting and art form, and for those who want to deepen the Steiner philosophy and anthroposophy in general. A rare gem for those who are thirsty for rarity.
B & B and Antico cantinone closed in December and January