These two provinces, once united under the Farnese family as a ducal state, have a proud history spanning over three centuries. The rich legacy of the ancient Duchy of Parma and Piacenza today provides an immense heritage in terms of its history and culture, with a wealth of both military and urban architecture – not to mention a plethora of outstanding gastronomic delights that transform a journey through these regions into one of the finest experiences imaginable of Italy’s already diverse and bountiful food culture – combining visits to castles with trips to dairies, salami factories, wineries and many other locations where some of our most famous PDO products are made. Before embarking on this intensive three-day itinerary, which would ideally merit a full week but will give you a clear idea of the region’s beauty (and leave you with a strong desire to come back for more!), it is helpful to be aware of a networking initiative that has been successfully implemented in Parma and Piacenza for over 25 years, which connects a group of private and public residences that are open to the public and offer visitors a low-cost card enabling discounts on entry fees, overnight accommodation and museums.
Our journey begins in the historic centre of Piacenza and ends in the heart of Parma, covering a total distance of less than 150 km and factoring in a few detours along the way. Exploring Piacenza, known as the ‘Primogenita’ or ‘Firstborn’ of Italy for being the first city whose electorate voted for annexation to the Kingdom of Sardinia, requires an entire day, at the very least. Highlights include Palazzo Farnese with its Civic Museums, featuring Botticelli’s ‘Tondo,’ a leisurely stroll through Piazza Cavalli to admire its bronze statues, and the Duomo with its distinctive dual stone façade that has pink marble on the lower part and sandstone on the upper sections. The Duomo also boasts a 5th-century baptismal font, a medieval crypt and Guercino’s dome. Other significant churches to visit include San Sisto, San Savino and Sant’Antonino, which houses the relics of the patron saint of Piacenza, as well as Santa Maria di Campagna, situated on the spot where Pope Urban II issued the order for the First Crusade to the Holy Land in 1095. Two noteworthy art galleries you should also drop by and see are the Giuseppe Ricci Oddi collection and the Galleria Alberoni, located in the Alberoni College established by Cardinal Alberoni in the 18th century, where works like ‘Hecce Homo’ and ‘Cristo alla Colonna’ (1473) by Antonello da Messina are preserved. You will then be more than ready for a gourmet break at one of the historic ‘bottega’ shops, such as Salumeria Amendolara, which first opened its doors in 1939, or a succulent lunch at Trattoria La Pireina, which has been serving customers since 1907 and where you can enjoy traditional Piacenza fare such as Pisarei e Fasò (gnocchi-like dumplings and beans), Tortelli (filled pasta), or Anolini in brodo (pasta cooked in broth). Dishes with horse meat are also available for those who appreciate this type of delicacy.
From Piacenza, head towards Castel San Giovanni, easily accessible via the motorway or by taking a more leisurely route along State Road 10, which leads straight to the town. Castel San Giovanni is also the gateway to Val Tidone, an area known for producing typical Piacenza wines like Gutturnio. Among the wineries we recommend you visit is Mossi 1558, which has been in existence for five hundred years and is now owned by the Profumo family. A short distance from the town is the first historical residence on our itinerary, Villa Caramello. Built in the early 18th century by renowned architect Ferdinando Galli Bibiena, it is considered a prime example of Baroque style in the Piacenza region. The Villa’s garden, featuring a large fishpond with water displays, is particularly noteworthy. The Villa can be visited by appointment and hosts cultural events and ceremonies, as well as being the backdrop for many film and music sets. For a gastronomic break in Castel San Giovanni, why not try Barca, an establishment that has been run by the Rizzi family since 1899: be sure to try their selection of boiled and roasted meats.
The journey from Val Tidone to Val Trebbia is short and scenic, winding along pleasant provincial roads until you arrive at Rivalta Trebbia, a small hamlet in Gazzola. This is the site of the Trebbia River Regional Park, where Hannibal set up his Carthaginian camp in preparation of the battle against the Roman troops in 218 BC. It is also the location of Castello di Rivalta, the second historical residence on our tour and the ideal address for an overnight stay, due to the fact that the castle complex also houses the Torre di San Martino hotel, complete with spa and wellness centre, and the La Rocchetta restaurant. Lovingly restored by the Zanardi Landi Counts, whose family has owned the estate since the late 1200s, the Castle has 54 rooms decorated with period furniture and carpets dating from the 1400s. The Borgo has been adapted over the years to host visitors from around the globe, including Princess Margaret of England, who spent several summer vacations here. The Castle can be booked for events and ceremonies and is open for visits during the winter (by reservation) and throughout the summer.
Our third historical stop can be found by following the route through Podenzano and San Giorgio Piacentino. Situated near one of Italy’s most beautiful villages, Castell’Arquato, on the slopes of the Val d’Arda valley, which is renowned for its famous Visconti Fortress, Casale La Colombara is a perfectly preserved country farmhouse that has been transformed into a charming residence. Constructed in the mid-1400s, it now features a tennis court, an indoor heated pool and a small lake overlooking the village of Castell’Arquato. It hosts corporate events and ceremonies, but also lends itself perfectly to a highly romantic experience, such as an intimate dinner for two.
Continuing on towards Fidenza, you will cross the boundary between the provinces of Piacenza and Parma. We suggest you take a detour into the centre of Fidenza, which historically forms part of the Via Francigena pilgrims’ route, in order to catch a glimpse of the façade and crypt of the Cathedral of San Donnino and the stunning Magnani Theatre. However, it is absolutely essential to then continue up into the hills to visit Salsomaggiore, a spa town famous for its therapeutic salsobromoiodic mineral waters – but also very well known to food lovers for the sweet specialities to be purchased at the Pasticceria Tosi pastry shop – before arriving at our fourth destination a little further down the road, Tabiano Terme. In medieval times, the Castello di Tabiano was one of the most imposing feudal fortresses in the Alta Emilia area, guarding as it did the Via Francigena and the salt wells of Salsomaggiore Terme. Today, it offers a much more tranquil and relaxing panorama, as the underlying ancient village has been transformed into a luxurious ‘relais de charme’ with suites, pools and wellness facilities, surrounded by an agricultural estate with restored old farmhouses converted into villas. There are also two restaurants, one of which is housed in what used to be the old dairy.
Coming back down from the hillsides, we head back to the flatter plains in the direction of Soragna, hoping to avoid too many temptations at the shopping outlet of Fidenza Village on route, where we reach Rocca di Soragna, built in 1385 by the marquises Bonifacio and Antonio Lupi. This historical residence, open to visitors and ideal for hosting events and ceremonies, is considered one of the most sumptuous residences in the whole of Italy. Its frescoed rooms, adorned with early Baroque furniture, can accommodate up to 300 people for wedding banquets. As you leave Soragna, it would be remiss not to incorporate a quick visit to Roncole Verdi, the birthplace of the inimitable composer. You could also choose to include a stop at Busseto, the place where Giuseppe Verdi began his career before moving to Milan, and the home of the Theatre named in his honour. From here, the last leg of our itinerary takes us to Parma, passing through Fontanellato with its memorable moat-surrounded fortress. Travelling along the Via Emilia, be sure to include a gastronomic stop in Sanguinaro, where you will find typical cured meats and ‘Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse’ (so named because the cheese is made from the milk of the Red Reggiane breed of cows). At Salumificio Rossi, this long-standing family company invented and is still the proud producer of the famous Culaccia ham with its registered trademark. After crossing the Taro bridge, you will arrive right at the entrance gate into Parma, our final destination, with a packed programme of places to visit. This ducal city merits a minimum of at least two days, so overnight accommodation in a historical residence is something of a prerequisite. The perfect place we have in mind could not be more centrally located. Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati dates from the 18th century, and its main ‘piano nobile’ floor has been transformed into an exclusive residence. From the windows of the suites, you can enjoy an incomparable view of Piazza Duomo, the Cathedral and the Baptistery, which are in fact the most important attractions of Parma. At the reception of this historical residence, you will also find a small shop called TGusto selling traditional gastronomic products. Once you have checked in and your luggage is safely stowed away in your room, all that is left for you to do is immerse yourself in the beautiful atmosphere of the city and set off to discover not only Piazza Duomo and the Teatro Regio opera house, but also all the other major Parma sights, from the Palazzo della Pilota cultural centre to the Galleria Nazionale art gallery and the spectacular Camera di San Paolo (‘Chamber of St. Paul’) in the Benedictine Monastery bearing the same name.
