In light of the region’s distinctive geographical features, the natural starting point to begin our journey discovering Calabria’s historical residences is the gateway for those travelling from the north, namely the A3 motorway. We are in the territory of the Pollino National Park, which straddles Basilicata and Calabria, and what is considered Italy’s largest protected area and a UNESCO World Heritage site. After passing the Castrovillari exit – although it is well worth taking a detour and stopping in Morano Calabro, considered the most beautiful village in Pollino and one of the most picturesque historic centres in the entire region, where you can enjoy lunch at La Locanda di Alia, a restaurant that has made a valuable contribution to the history of Calabrian gastronomy, that is located near the A3 junction – continue on to the Sibari junction. Instead of heading towards the Ionian Sea, we suggest you take provincial road 235 to Firmo and follow the road up to Lungro, which is the centre of the Arbëreshë community (known as ‘the Albanians of Calabria’), where the first major stop of our itinerary is situated. Palazzo Bavasso was built in the second half of the 19th century by brothers Vincenzo and Costantino Bavasso, prominent members of the emerging bourgeoisie who entrusted the design to an architect from the Neapolitan neo-classical school. The construction of this residence added even greater significance to the town of Lungro, which already had its place on the map due to the presence of the Cathedral of San Nicola Di Mira, considered the most important basilica of Byzantine Catholicism in Italy. Palazzo Bavasso remains in the Bavasso family and serves as the headquarters of a cultural association dedicated to promoting Arbëreshë traditions, including language, music, literature, religion and artistic events. It is also a perfect venue for tasting local products from their family-owned Maradei Agricultural Company, including wines from native grape varieties (Magliocco and Guarnaccia) and extra virgin olive oil.
The road from the mountains to the sea in the direction of the Tyrrhenian coast from Lungro is a rather tortuous, winding route, so it could take about an hour and a half to cover the sixty kilometres to reach Sangineto Lido. A good alternative, to avoid the multiple curves, is to return to Firmo and proceed towards Casello, stopping at Lago d’Ésaro, an artificial lake with a somewhat turbulent history. Nearby is one of Calabria’s secret jewels, the archaeological park of Villa di Larderia, which is open for visits and contains the magnificent remains of an ancient Roman ‘domus’ house finely decorated with polychrome mosaics. Continuing on towards the sea, we recommend a gastronomic stop on route to savour the flavours of Pollino. La Tana del Ghiro, an authentic ‘osteria’ highly praised by the Slow Food guide, is located in the town of San Sosti. The main attraction in Sangineto is the focus of our second stop. The Castello del Principe was built in the 15th century by the Sanseverino princes of Bisignano, who replaced the former castle and constructed the new building in order to control the mouth of the Sangineto river nearby. The Castle’s imposing historical structure and its unique location with a direct view of the sea have established it as a standout landmark. While in Sangineto, given that our itinerary brought us to the sea from inland, it is worth taking time to explore two other hidden gems in the province of Cosenza: the ‘Cascata di Vuglio’ or ‘Vuglio Waterfall’, where water dramatically cascades into a natural cave, and the ‘Sentiero dei Sogni’, a nature trail that follows the course of the stream, aptly named the ‘path where dreams are born’.
From the ‘Riviera dei Cedri’ or ‘Cedar Riviera’, as this area along the coast of the Alto Tirreno of Cosenza is called, we continue south towards Amantea, a journey of about one hour without any stops. There are, however, plenty of good reasons to have a break along the way! One in particular is for the spectacle of the Luigiane Baths in Acquappesa, the oldest and best known thermal spa in Calabria, renowned for its sulphurous, salt-bromine-iodine waters, which have the highest sulphate content in Italy (173 mg/l), and are recommended as a remedy for various conditions, including rheumatism and skin diseases. The striking ‘Scoglio della Regina’ (‘Queen’s Rock’), is very close by. This 20-metre-high stack, nowadays completely surrounded by the sea, is the subject of more than one piece of folklore, perhaps the most famous being the tale of a king and queen of France overcoming their infertility issues and conceiving a child in these waters.
You may also wish to drive up to Fiumefreddo to enjoy the breathtaking views from Castello della Valle, where there is a room displaying frescoes painted by Salvatore Fiume.
Images of Amantea immediately evoke its commanding view of the Tyrrhenian Sea, along with its beautiful churches, like the 13th-century Church of San Francis of Assisi and the Cathedral of San Biagio, not to mention the historic Palazzo delle Clarisse, which served as a convent for two centuries and until recently housed one of the region’s most appreciated restaurants. The highlight of this part of our itinerary is undoubtedly a visit to Palazzo Carratelli, a 15th-century historical residence that was restored and expanded after the earthquake in 1638. Over its long history, it has hosted illustrious guests including Vincenzo Maria Orsini, the Cardinal of Benevento, who later became Pope Benedict XIII. Today, Palazzo Carratelli is owned by Gianludovico and Camilla de Martino di Montegiordano, who are continuing the family’s long-standing tradition of hospitality by operating a charming Bed & Breakfast within the historic home, providing two double rooms with antechambers and bathrooms to welcome their guests. While in Amantea, don’t miss the convent of San Bernardino and the marble altarpiece of the Nativity by Pietro Bernini in the Oratory of the Nobles. Less than a five-minute walk from the Palazzo is the Sicoli ice cream shop, with its pièce de la résistance pistachio-based creations.
After a memorable overnight stay at the Palazzo, it’s time to set off for the final two residences of our journey, less than an hour away from Amantea. Along the way, make a brief stop at the Coreca Cliff to admire the distinctive green stone characteristic of this coastal area. If you enjoy discovering fortified castles, there are two great examples geographically placed very close to each other in and near Aiello Calabro. Take advantage of this location by enjoying a gourmet meal at Osteria Malaspina on the main square surrounded by sixteenth-century palazzos, as well as exploring the castles of Cleto and Savuto. After by-passing the city of Lamezia Terme, where the region’s biggest airport is based, you will arrive at Acconia, where Villa Cefaly Pandolphi is located. Built in the late 18th century amidst grapefruit plantations by the Cefaly family, the Villa’s residents included statesman Antonio Cefaly, vice president of the Senate for thirty years and one of Giovanni Giolitti’s closest advisors. The Villa can be visited by prior appointment. Following your tour, there are many attractive things to see in and around Lamezia and Acconia, depending on your personal interests. For example, the most imposing plane tree in Italy, the monumental ‘Platano di Vrisi’, is over a thousand years old and has a hollow trunk that can fit up to twenty people inside. Pipe enthusiasts could also take an hour’s detour to visit Brognaturo and purchase a masterpiece of Calabrian craftsmanship, a pipe hand-crafted by Domenico Grenci using locally sourced briarwood. Last but not least, those with a sweet tooth should make a beeline for Pizzo Calabro, just twenty minutes from Villa Cefaly Pandolphi. Make sure to include a stop in this fortified village, where French statesman Joachim Murat met his end, and take a seat in Piazza della Repubblica where all the bars serve the delicious world-famous hazelnut gelato dessert, ‘il Tartufo di Pizzo Calabro’, the first ice cream ever to receive PGI recognition. Our top recommendations? Bar Gelateria Ercole and Antica Gelateria Belvedere. After such a variety of experiences, we end our trip at the fifth and final historical residence, a relatively short drive away by motorway, exiting at Gioia Tauro and heading towards Cannavà di Rizziconi, an eighteenth-century ‘borgo’ or hamlet now owned by the Acton of Leporano Princes, who have converted the former famers’ dwellings into guest accommodation. The cultivation of olive trees is omnipresent at Borgo di Cannavà and five different types of extra virgin olive oil are produced here. During your stay, you can engage in the traditional craft of basket weaving, using bark from Aspromonte trees to make unique artisanal products.
