Many people spend their holidays in France following the Loire river and visiting the castles en route, while not many have discovered that there is an equally stunning option here in Italy in the form of the ‘Valley of the Castles’ itinerary, which stretches along the road connecting Cuneo with Turin. This journey travels across different historical eras, from the Middle Ages to the period of the Savoy dynasty, with diverse and fascinating histories just waiting to be revealed. What makes this part of Piedmont even more interesting is not only its castles, which are set against the backdrop of the Alps and the unmistakable pyramid-like peak of Monte Viso, but also the local produce and fine wines, given that the Langhe region is not far away. We begin our exploration of all these precious elements in the capital of “La Granda”, as the local Piedmontese fondly like to call the province of Cuneo.
In Cuneo itself, we recommend you dedicate some time to strolling around the central square, Piazza Galimberti, as well as the Duomo dedicated to Santa Maria del Bosco, the complex of San Francesco, the main shopping streets such as Via Roma with its arcades, Corso Nizza (the ancient ghetto in the Mondovì district), and the Civic Tower, where you can enjoy a fantastic view of the city. Cuneo offers a rich and varied culinary scene: for lunch, why not try the Osteria della Chiocciola on Via Fossano or Sorì on Lungostura Kennedy, while for a sweet treat, be sure to drop in at the Pasticceria Airone to try the ‘Cuneesi al rum’, a local delicacy that has been produced here since 1923.
Once you leave Cuneo’s historic centre, head along the road that leads to the Margarita area in the direction of the Castello della Margarita, which was built in the 17th century by the Solaro family. Following the extinction of their lineage, the Castle passed into the hands of the Lovera di Castiglione and Maria families. With its distinctive double horseshoe-shaped plan, one section has a more simple, rustic design, while the other is more representative and ornate. The palazzo and the garden blend seamlessly with the town, the latter offering formal areas as well as intimate, quieter spots. Visits are available by reservation for a minimum of four participants. The venue can also be hired for cultural events, film productions and photography shoots.
Next, continue on to Castelletto Stura, internationally renowned for housing the Venchi chocolate factory, an iconic brand of made-in-Italy chocolate bars, pralines and ice cream which first opened its doors in 1878. After crossing the Stura River, travel towards Costigliole Saluzzo and the home of Palazzo Sarriod de la Tour, an 18th-century historical residence now used as a library, as well as three other castles. You will then arrive in Piasco, where Palazzo Porporato di Piasco awaits, named after the family that built it around 1650. Guided tours are offered of the ground floor, loggia and main ‘piano nobile’ floor, where you can admire a cycle of impressive frescoes painted by Piedmontese and Ligurian artists. The interior decoration of the new castle at Piasco presents intriguing connections with frescoes to be found in the Royal Palace in Turin and Reggia di Venaria. Our next stop is Savigliano, where the absolutely unmissable Piazza Santa Rosa, one of Italy’s best-preserved medieval squares, proudly displays a monument to Santorre di Santarosa, who was born here and who played a major role in Italy’s Risorgimento unification movement. The Piedmontese Railway Museum in Savigliano is similarly a great place to visit. It is dedicated to showcasing the town’s long history of train production dating back to the mid-19th century. Now home to Alstom, a leading player in high-speed train manufacturing, the museum pays tribute to the region’s industrial legacy. There is also a historic residence to visit the centre of Savigliano. Palazzo Muratori Cravetta is located on the road known as ‘Jerusalem Street’ and is the result of the amalgamation of three previously separate and neighbouring aristocratic abodes belonging to the Corvo, Tapparelli and Muratori families, which were united by Giovanni Francesco I Cravetta, the first president of the ducal Senate. The courtyard of honour is a prime example of late-Renaissance Piedmontese architecture, and it was in a room on the ground floor that Duke Carlo Emanuele I passed away. This space features a sublime coffered ceiling decorated with around 160 painted panels depicting family crests, figures, animals and scenes of everyday life which have a distinctly medieval flair. To visit, contact the IAT – Tourist Office of Savigliano.
Our itinerary continues in Villanova Solaro, where you will find Castello dei Solaro, a historical residence dating back to the 1200s which was originally built by the noble Princes of Acaja as a military defense against the powerful Marquisate of Saluzzo. Over the centuries, the story goes that it was transformed from a medieval fortress into a true cultural salon under the subsequent ownership of the Solaro Counts after the 1400s. Rumour has it that Silvio Pellico read from his illustrious work “Le Mie Prigioni” (translated as ‘My Time in Prison’) to a select group of listeners in this very place. Today, the Castle serves as an elegant location for private events and weddings in the province of Cuneo, and has hosted more than 2,500 weddings over the course of more than 20 years.
The next destination is Racconigi, best known for its Royal Castle, which was once the residence of the Savoy family. It was indeed the birthplace of the last King of Italy, Umberto II. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, it was originally a defensive castle with a square layout, four towers, a moat, a drawbridge and a keep. It was transformed into a “villa delle delizie” or ‘villa of delights’ in the 17th century by Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy, serving as a pleasurable retreat for the noble individuals staying there. The park, spanning 170 hectares, is one of the main attractions, often photographed featuring the Margarìa, a neo-Gothic complex that consists of a homestead, the queen’s reposoir and the royal greenhouses. A short distance from the latter is Tenuta Berroni, the private historical estate of the Counts of Castelbarco, built in 1773 as a summer home for the noble De Laugier family. The Tenuta contains a splendid park, a chapel and several rural outbuildings. Inside, it boasts exquisite decorations and antique furnishings created by a number of celebrated artists who likewise received commissions at the Castello di Racconigi. The Countess of Castelbarco Visconti personally leads the tours through the refined spaces of the Villa, including its impressive two-storey main hall. The property is also a popular venue for private events and ceremonies, and offers two apartments for rent with a private garden.
After leaving Casalgrasso, cross the Po River and enter the province of Turin, where there are four more private residences to visit. The first, in Villafranca, is the Castello di Marchierù, which now orgnises private events and weddings. Originally constructed as a defensive structure, it was converted in the 17th century into a residential dwelling, characterised by an inner courtyard presented in the neo-Gothic style with horizontal coloured bands. The second stop is Palazzo Conti di Bricherasio, built in the 17th century in the Baroque style with a park that blends various styles, drawing from both early English garden design and botanical collection trends. This extremely popular Castle proposes private events, corporate gatherings, evening concerts, art exhibitions and a host of cultural activities.
The Castello di Miradolo is on the road to Pinerolo and is located at the entrance of the Val Chisone. Managed by the Cosso Foundation, it presents exhibitions and theatrical and musical events, as well as offering training courses and social activities. The turning point in the nineteenth castle’s history, which had been abandoned since the 1990s, occurred in 2007 when the entire complex was purchased by a group of private owners, who initiated a restoration plan thanks to the creation of the foundation. Today, the Castle also houses a café and a bookshop. After your visit, we suggest you discover the town centre of Pinerolo and its museums, including the Palazzo del Comune, the 15th-century Casa del Senato and Piazza S. Donato, where the cathedral is situated. There are several spectacular marvels in the area surrounding Pinerolo, including the Forte di Fenestrelle, which is the largest fortified structure in Europe and the second-largest masonry structure after the Great Wall of China, and the Ecomuseo delle Miniere e della Val Germanasca, an eco-museum which focuses on the history and culture of mining in the valley. Before leaving Pinerolo, tuck into the delicious pastries served up by famous chef Davide Muro, a virtuoso in the art of baking, at the Antica Pasticceria Castino in the town’s central square.
As you approach the city of Turin, you will arrive at the final historical residence of our journey. This is Casa Lajolo, located in Piossasco and owned by the Lajolo family. The Casa is is best known for its exceptional garden, which is laid out over three levels. The house is now open to visitors and hosts private events.
