Bergamo’s recent achievements in football have contributed to further increasing the appeal of a city whose economic and industrial prominence threatened to eclipse its intrinsic beauty during the latter half of the twentieth century. Its inherent charm encompasses not only the historic centres of both its upper and lower parts, but also extends to the province itself, which can similarly be categorised into two distinct ‘levels’: the higher valleys that lead towards the Alps and Prealps, and the flatter floodplain regions. Moreover, Bergamo enjoys a strategically central position geographically, sitting as it does in the heart of the Po Valley; and while it may appear slightly removed from the main northern Italian railway line, it is very accessible by car via the A4 motorway or by air. Its Orio al Serio airport is among Italy’s busiest, serving nearly 16 million passengers in 2023. Are you ready, then, to explore the jewel of Lombardy? Before you set off, it is important to note that the Upper Town or ‘Città Alta’ is a splendid medieval enclave encircled by Venetian walls, which have recently been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, while the Lower Town (‘Città Bassa’) represents the vibrant heart of city life and commerce, alternating as it does between ancient sixteenth-century districts, nineteenth-century neighbourhoods and contemporary displays of architecture. The two distinct zones blend seamlessly, giving Bergamo a charming, people-friendly atmosphere which makes it both a pleasurable place to live in and to visit. We begin our itinerary from the Lower Town, focusing on the works of a painter called Lorenzo Lotto (1480-1557), who was a Venetian by birth and a globetrotter by profession, who has left behind an important collection of his works in the three churches of Santo Spirito, San Bartolomeo and San Bernardino, the latter temporarily closed for restoration work. In the Lower Town, you will find our first historical residence, Palazzo Agliardi, which stands near Porta Sant’Agostino and the Accademia Carrara art gallery, an area where prominent noble and merchant families chose to construct their homes in the sixteenth century. Built in 1500 by Alessandro Martinengo Colleoni, the nephew of military leader Bartolomeo Colleoni, the Palazzo was renovated in 1741 by architect Caniana. It has been owned by the Agliardi Counts since 1845. Inside the house, there is a large central hall flanked by four adjoining reception rooms, with ceilings that are decorated with exquisite eighteenth-century frescoes by C. I. Carloni and F. Ferrario. These rooms open onto a charming terraced garden and stables. The Palazzo can be visited all year round by prior appointment, for groups of at least fifteen people. The owners themselves offer a warm welcome to their guests, sharing stories and anecdotes about their home and its history, often concluding the visit with a meal shared together. Palazzo Agliardi is also available for private or corporate events, photo shoots, fashion shows, conferences, concerts and exhibitions.
In the afternoon, head to the Upper Town to explore its main attractions. The presence of a number of winged lions serves as a reminder of the Venetian dominion which lasted for three centuries. Notable sites include Piazza Vecchia, the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, the Colleoni Chapel and the Cathedral. To conclude the afternoon, and if the calendar coincides, make your way to Palazzo Terzi, a splendid private residence and the most important baroque property in Bergamo, located right next to Piazza Vecchia. It is impossible not to be amazed by the breath-taking panoramic terrace, and you can admire rooms steeped in history and rich in artworks. The guided tour lasts around 45 minutes and is led by members of the Terzi family, who accompany visitors through the accessible rooms on the third Sunday of each month. If you plan to dine in the Upper Town, we highly recommend reserving at Enrico Bartolini’s Michelin-starred restaurant Casual, delightfully positioned in a Liberty-style villa overlooking San Vigilio above the city. Alternatively, for those wishing to experience traditional Bergamasque cuisine (notably, dishes with polenta, casoncelli stuffed pasta with their distinctive crescent shapes, and cheeses from the Val Brembana valleys), Antica Trattoria La Colombina is an excellent choice. For overnight stays in the tranquil and characterful atmosphere of Bergamo Alta, Hotel Le Funi is a great option.
On the morning of the second day, after savouring the sweet treats from the Cerea family in Città Alta at Pasticceria Cavour 1880 – the same family, by the way, bringing their expertise to fine dining at the three Michelin-starred Ristorante Da Vittorio in neighbouring Brusaporto – head down through the Porta di Sant’Agostino and enter the universe of the Pinacoteca dell’Accademia Carrara. This museum is home to masterpieces by celebrated artists such as Raphael, Bellini, Mantegna, Pisanello, Lotto, Moroni, Canaletto… the list goes on. This art gallery is a true hidden gem and contains one of Italy’s most significant art collections in a location where you might not expect to come upon such marvels. You will need at least a couple of hours there before returning to Bergamo Alto to admire Palazzo Moroni, a stunning 17th-century residence managed by FAI (the ‘Fondo Ambiente Italiano’ is the National Trust of Italy), and then taking the funicular up to San Vigilio to admire wonderful vistas of the city and plains from the Rocca. Descend all the way down to the Città Bassa on foot, winding your way past lush gardens and orchards on the hillside of Bergamo and reward yourselves with dinner at the historic Osteria Tre Gobbi, or elect to stay in Città Alta to try out the popular wine bar Al Donizetti.
On the third day, we leave Bergamo behind in pursuit of the Valle d’Astino, a small valley where there is an enchanting monastery dating back to the year 1000, surrounded by agricultural fields and a botanical garden. Lunchtime will find you at our third historical residence, Villa Pesenti Agliardi in Sombreno, situated near the Sanctuary of the Madonna of the same Brembana locality. Designed in the neoclassical style by Leopold Pollack (who also designed the Royal Villa in Milan), the Villa is nestled at the foot of the hills in the Parco dei Colli. Pollack’s 27 water-coloured drawings are preserved within the villa; they demonstrate the sketched theme for the garden, which was to be enhanced by impressive monuments. The original plans were not, however, fully executed, and the garden was subsequently reinterpreted in a romantic style. Visitors have access to the chapel, the monumental staircase and rooms decorated with remarkable frescoes and stucco work. Villa Pesenti Agliardi is open for visits by reservation throughout the year, for groups of at least twenty people, with the possibility of the owners graciously hosting guests for lunches or dinners. During the summer, the venue is available for organising wedding receptions and corporate events, as well as photo shoots and concerts. Close by the Villa is Osteria Scotti, a refined restaurant situated in a seventeenth-century manor house, with a beautiful garden that evokes the traditional Bergamasque roccoli – clearings in the woods created for bird hunting, surrounded by hornbeam hedges that are trimmed into characteristic shapes.
In the afternoon, make your way to Almenno San Salvatore to explore the Romanesque churches of San Tomè and San Nicola. We suggest you conclude the day with a visit to Villa Vitalba Lurani Cernuschi, an eighteenth-century estate with a vast garden graced by centuries-old trees, located close to the Convent of San Nicola and the family cellars, where wines produced from grapes cultivated on the property can be tasted.
The fourth day of our route begins by circling around Bergamo: after leaving Villa Vitalba Lurani Cernuschi, loop around Bergamo Alta in the direction of Nembro. Just before entering the town, you will find the Sacristies of Alzano Lombardo, an unexpected baroque masterpiece within the Basilica of San Martino, home to the Museum of Sacred Art. Continue on to Trescore Balneario and the Cappella Suardi, a chapel dedicated to Saints Barbara and Bridget, hidden away in an ancient villa and adorned with incredible frescoes by Lorenzo Lotto. The next stop on our itinerary is Cavernago, situated in the lowland area along the Serio River. This is where Castello di Malpaga was erected, another historical site open to the public. The Castle served as the noble residence of condottiere Bartolomeo Colleoni, a mercenary and Captain of the Republic of Venice during the fifteenth century. He enhanced his home with valuable frescoes by well-known Italian and foreign artists, including the renowned Il Romanino, a master of Lombard realism. Overnight accommodation is provided here, as the Castle now also functions as a Bed and Breakfast, while meals are served at the Locanda dei Nobili Viaggiatori. Independently of the hotel and dining services, Castello di Malpaga welcomes visitors for tours every Saturday and Sunday, and on public holidays. It is available for private group visits, corporate gatherings, private events and weddings.
The fifth and final day offers the opportunity of discovering the last three private historical residences in the province of Bergamo. From Castello di Malpaga, proceed toward the border between Brescia and Cremona, and make your way to Torre Pallavicina by the Oglio River, where Palazzo Barbò is located. This impressive palazzo, designed by architect Antonio Campi, is set in a 25,000-square-metre park filled with centuries-old trees, and boasts enormous halls and towers dating back to the 15th century, such as the imposing Tristan’s Tower, as it is known, which is linked to the legend of the knight in shining armour. Once discovered, this palazzo is sure to become the perfect destination for your next relaxing getaway, given the prospect of lounging by the poolside in the peace and tranquillity of the Bergamo countryside. From here, it is possible to visit the Castello Sforzesco and the Casa degli Stampatori printing museum around 5 km away in the centre of Soncino.
