Bolzano, the capital of an autonomous province, serves as a crucial link between northern and southern Europe. Nestled amidst towering peaks that stay snow-covered until early summer, it is positioned at the crossroads of the Adige and Isarco valleys. The city has developed a thriving tourism industry by hosting a number of cultural events and holding its famous annual Christmas market, offering a unique experience that showcases a different side of Alto Adige beyond the usual summer and winter tourist spots. The region also attracts many visitors due to its high-quality local products, above all its renowned wines, which hold significant cultural and social importance. The ‘nectar of Bacchus’ acts as a symbol of local identity and serves as an opportunity for dialogue, too. This might come as a surprise to those who typically associate South Tyrol with being a territory dominated by beer, a beverage that is well represented by successful breweries like Forst Pubs and Spillers. We therefore felt it was important to create a proposed route focusing on Bolzano and its nearby areas that not only includes its museums, churches and scenic landscapes, but also the most notable wineries that have made a mark and established themselves on the local and national dining scene. In addition to the gastronomic aspect, which features exquisite local specialities including freshly baked breads and desserts, it would be inadmissible not to present the artistic craftsmanship that reflects the meticulous attention the inhabitants of South Tyrol put into everything, from hospitality through to porcelain creations. And of course, on the winery front this itinerary will enable you to admire innovative projects from a design perspective as well. Our starting point is in the very heart of Bolzano, which serves as a convenient base for exploring both the centre and its surroundings.
Bolzano is easily accessible via a comprehensive motorway and railway system, including high-speed trains from Verona that connect the major Italian cities. In terms of accommodation, we highly recommend strategically placed options, such as the Hotel Greif on Piazza Walther, whose rooms have balconies offering views of the Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and which is very central for those wishing to shop while visiting the city. Alternatively, the Parkhotel Laurin on via Laurin boasts a very impressive garden. Shopping enthusiasts should seek out Laubengasse, also known in Italian as Via dei Portici, the commercial hub that links Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza del Municipio, while Piazza Walther is home to the uber-popular Christmas market. There is certainly no shortage of museums here. The South Tyrol Archaeological Museum has housed Ötzi, the famous Ice Man from the Copper Age, since 1998. He was discovered on the glacier of Mount Similaun after having been preserved in the ice for 5,300 years, and today visitors can view the mummy and his numerous pieces of equipment and clothing, experiencing many aspects of this time traveller’s life and times. While in some way Ötzi the Iceman is to Bolzano what the Riace Bronzes are to Reggio Calabria, the capital of South Tyrol has much more to offer culturally in terms of its museums, from the two hundred artworks exhibited in the Civic Museum, to the insights into the formation of the Dolomites and the variety of landscapes represented at the Museum of Natural Sciences. The latter is located in the former administrative headquarters of the Emperor of Austria, Maximilian I, and welcomes many tourists through its doors thanks to the draw of its marine aquarium. Also to include during your stay are the modern and contemporary art museum, Museion, as well as the Mercantile Museum, which records and outlines the city’s economic history, and the Cathedral’s Museum of Treasures. On the subject of museums – and castles – be sure to incorporate a detour to nearby Castel Firmiano if you are interested in learning the remarkable story of Reinhold Messner, a figure who has significantly influenced the history of mountaineering, recounted inside this fortress by the Adige River. His museum project provides a comprehensive overview of the mountain world or, more specifically, its relationship with mankind.
After concentrating on all things cultural, and before planning the following day – which will be rigorously dedicated to discovering the wineries and the area surrounding Bolzano – it is time to turn our attention to the many culinary offerings at hand. For dinner, we suggest you try the Zur Kaiserkron restaurant in Piazza della Mostra, or head uphill along Via del Colle to reach Gasthof Kohlern. For those with a sweet tooth, Lintner is a historic pastry shop which is deemed by the locals to be the kingdom of strudel. Art enthusiasts will find plenty of artisanal gifts at Thun on Via Galvani, while Tschager in Laubengasse is the ideal go-to place for hand-carved wooden nativity scenes and statues, encompassing both religious and secular themes.
The second day of our journey focuses on the interplay of wine and architecture, highlighting the way in which the quality of Alto Adige wines is reflected in the architectural designs of the region’s wineries. Head south in the direction of Egna, then make your way to Cantina Kurtatsch in Cortaccia, whose dolomite slab façade was crafted by architects Dell’Agnolo and Kelderer. Not far from here is the Tiefenbrunner winery, a fascinating destination that offers a glimpse into the 13th century, which is located within Castel Turmhof, an ancient fortress with over 800 years of history that is surrounded by picturesque vineyards. Continuing along the wine route, you will encounter Cantina Tramin, an architectural project designed by Werner Tscholl. This striking structure, made of green metal and glass, embodies energy-efficient principles while recalling the physical shape of vine shoots. Further along the strada del vino, your path will lead you to the delightful Tenuta Manincor wine estate, which is practically invisible to the outsider’s eye, as it is discreetly tucked away behind the vineyards. The final stop before retracing your steps back to Bolzano is Cantina Produttori di Bolzano, which first opened in 2018 and blends seamlessly into the surrounding landscape, given that it was built using sustainable architectural methods. It goes without saying that all of these wineries are perfectly equipped for wine tourism, allowing passersby and enthusiasts alike the opportunity to taste the fruits of their labour. Why not enjoy lunch at Bistro Castel Turmhof, adjacent to Tiefenbrunner, which offers outdoor seating? The wines at this kellerei (the German term for winery) beautifully complement traditional South Tyrolean dishes, including Signora Hilde’s homemade liver pâté.
