‘Basilicata Coast to Coast’ is the title of a much-loved Italian film that touched the heart of every person hailing from Lucania (an ancient name for Basilicata) and anyone with a passion for this region. In one memorable scene, the film’s director and lead actor, Rocco Papaleo, who was born in Lauria, exclaims: “Basilicata exists!” Not only does this region exist, but it also enjoys a unique position between two seas, with the Tyrrhenian to the west and the Ionian to the east. Our itinerary will retrace the steps of the adventures of the motley crew from Papaleo’s film, though there’s no guarantee we’ll end up attending the grand finale concert in Scanzano Ionico— which they themselves missed —and we will adjust the cinematic route to suit our primary goal: namely, exploring some of the most captivating historical residences in this part of Italy. Our journey will, however, begin in exactly the same spot as the film: Maratea.
This town has gained strategic importance with the introduction of high-speed trains to Reggio Calabria and Rome, as it has become much more convenient for visitors to enjoy a Lucanian getaway, and to access the area’s most sought-after beach destinations quickly and easily. Its reputation as the ‘Pearl of the Tyrrhenian’ stems from several factors, beginning with the most natural one: the coastline’s unique configuration. Along the 32 kilometres of the Tyrrhenian, there are coves, small beaches predominantly made of pebbles and volcanic rock, 130 karst caves and several islets, including La Matrella and Santo Ianni. In addition, there are 44 churches, among which the most noteworthy are the Basilica of San Biagio, Santa Maria Maggiore and Madonna della Neve, and also the convents of the Capuchin and Minor Observant friars. Interestingly, the most photographed landmark in Maratea is not a beach or a church but a statue: Christ the Redeemer stands on Mount San Biagio and is the second largest of its kind in the world, surpassed only by the Christ of Corcovado in Rio de Janeiro. This sculpture, commissioned by Count Stefano Rivetti di Val Cervo, was crafted by Florentine artist Bruno Innocenti between 1963 and 1965, using a mix of cement and flakes of Seravezza marble. Before leaving Maratea, be sure to indulge in a slice of torta Lucana at the Pasticceria Panza pastry shop (famous for its typical bocconotti, made of shortcrust pastry, cream and black cherry jam). The cake is enriched with walnuts, dried figs, citron and chocolate shavings, and it is so indulgent that it could substitute an entire meal. However, if you’re keen to sit down and savour the local cuisine, we highly recommend ‘Il Giardino di Epicuro’. And if you are interested in purchasing some local specialities, go no further than ‘Farmacia dei Sani’ for a taste of the traditional herbal liqueur, Amaro Maratea, which is often enjoyed as a digestif.
The road to Potenza starts with the ascent toward Lauria, a town defined by its two distinct neighbourhoods: the upper part is known as ‘’Il Castello’ and the lower one is called ‘Il Borgo’. Lauria is notable as the site of Blessed Domenico Lentini, its patron saint, and his relics are housed in the main church dedicated to Saint Nicholas. Before proceeding along Provincial Road 19, take a brief detour to Lake Sirino, a picturesque spot perfect for a leisurely walk by the water, with its stunning backdrop of the Apennine Mountains. While Lake Cogliandrino is also well worth a visit, it is slightly more challenging to access, so we propose you carry on towards a location that has given its name to one of the most appreciated pecorino cheeses of Italy, a source of pride of Lucanian agri-food production. Moliterno is the home of a traditional hard cheese, Canestrato, with the PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status, certifying the specific characteristics tied to its geographical origin. The medieval castle that overlooks the village is another highlight worth exploring. The fact that local products are a very serious matter in Lucania is exemplified by the village you will encounter immediately after Moliterno, for Sarconi is the homeland of PGI fagioli beans. Our journey continues on to Grumento Nova in the upper Agri Valley, where you will be able to discover an archaeological park and national archaeological museum (don’t miss the domus featuring mosaics and the theatre), which are situated in close proximity to Lago di Pietra del Pertusillo, an artificial lake with a complex and tumultuous history.
Approaching Potenza, you will find the first historical residence on our itinerary in the locality of Pignola.
Dimora Storica Giorni was originally built in the 17th century and has been converted into a beautiful resort with a spa, eight historic suites and a restaurant, Il Granaio, which is available for guests. Staying at this relaxing palazzo would facilitate a visit to Potenza the following day, which proudly holds the title of being the highest regional capital in Italy, standing at 819 metres above sea level. The only provincial capital to exceed the height of this ‘city of a hundred staircases’ is Enna in Sicily. While there may not be exactly a hundred staircases to climb in Potenza, the number of churches here is definitely a talking point, ranging from the 13th-century Church of San Francesco to the neoclassical Cathedral dedicated to San Gerardo. The town centre develops around two main thoroughfares, Strada Pretoria and the aptly named Via Sacra delle Chiese (‘Sacred Road of the Churches’). En route for Oppido Lucano, take the time to make a quick detour to Acerenza, a town that has achieved national recognition in recent years thanks to Pasticceria Tiri and its master pastry chef Vincenzo Tiri, who has accomplished the remarkable feat of outperforming competition even from Lombardy in the art of leavened pastries – including the iconic Milanese panettone!
State Road 655 gently meanders along the border between Basilicata and Puglia, guiding us to Matera, nowadays recognisable the world over for the distinctive ‘Sassi’ cave dwellings etched into the rocky landscape. Once deemed the epitome of the impoverished living conditions in which the southern population used to live, these areas gave rise to the modern district of La Martella, established following a law enacted by Alcide De Gasperi for the relocation of the residents. Today, Matera draws an incredible number of tourists to its doors, not only because of its historical allure but also for the many films set in its ancient quarters, which were so vividly described by Carlo Levi.
To quote the great author:
“Upon walking a short distance from the train station, I arrived at a street lined on the one side by a series of old houses, while on the other side there was a sheer precipice. Nestled inside that precipice is Matera.”
And again:
“These inverted cones, these funnels, are called ‘Sassi’. Their shape conjures up images reminiscent of my school days and the vision I had in my mind’s eye of Dante’s inferno.”
These days, many of the Sassi dwellings, some of which were formerly used for storing tools, have been converted into luxurious hotels. This is certainly not the case for the first noble historical residence on our itinerary, as we are talking about Palazzo Bernardini già Ferrau, historically known as Palazzo Ferraù or Palazzo Giudicepietro, which is one of the last remaining examples of a noble family home in Basilicata. Built around 1448, it contains 17 rooms, the majority of which are exquisitely frescoed. The ‘Salone delle Feste’ ballroom gallery is the most notable highlight, which is adorned with authentic furnishings. The designation of Matera as European Capital of Culture in 2019 provided the occasion for the inauguration of Bed & Breakfast accommodation at the Palazzo, boasting three suites which allow guests to enjoy an unparalleled view of the Piazza del Sedile square connecting the two main districts of Matera, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano.
As you drive towards Bernalda, our last stop before heading to the other coastline, call in at Ferrandina. Here you can admire the dome of the convent of San Domenico and the traditional houses of its historic centre, but it is also a perfect opportunity to then pass by Pisticci, the birthplace of a veritable Lucanian institution: Amaro Lucano, whose unforgettable slogan “Cosa vuoi di più dalla vita?” translates beautifully as “What more could you want from life?” The Pisticci Scalo distillery has been welcoming visitors for several years and is a member of the national network Museimpresa, which brings together over 130 museums and the archives of large, medium and small Italian companies. While you are there, why not try out the Essenza Lucano Experience, which offers options for free entry or guided tours, naturally concluding at La Bottega and the cocktail bar.
From Pisticci, continue on towards Metaponto. Our second and final destination before catching a glimpse of the Ionian Sea is the historical residence in Bernalda, Palazzo Margherita. Named after the family who built it in the 19th century, the owner of this property always comes as somewhat of a surprise to those who didn’t previously know that the Palazzo was acquired in 2004 by the one of the greatest directors in film history, none other than Francis Ford Coppola, whose father originally hailed from this Materan village. Today, Palazzo Margherita is a boutique hotel offering nine luxurious rooms, with a divine historic garden and a particular focus on traditional regional cuisine prepared on-site. The renovation was spearheaded by designer Jacques Grange. Staying here offers guests the possibility of experiencing cooking classes or enjoying yoga or Pilates sessions, as well as being able to relax on the nearby beaches of Metaponto, Scanzano and Policoro, which seems like an altogether fitting end for our coast-to-coast adventure.