We are off to the far northeast of Italy for this itinerary, in pursuit of the most beautiful historical residences located between the low Friulian plain and the area along the course of the Isonzo River. The destinations on the agenda share a rich and undoubtedly complex history as a result of their borderland status. This has impacted local populations both in ancient times, during the barbarian invasions, and in more recent times, when the Italian equivalent of the ‘Iron Curtain’ appeared here, bringing with it much barbed wire and the division of cities like Gorizia. Thankfully, everything is much more peaceful these days, enabling visitors to fully appreciate its natural beauty, the UNESCO world heritage sites and the unique flavours of a land-based cuisine that blends with those brought from the sea, along with distinctive lagoon specialities – all complemented by internationally renowned wines and exceptional spirits. We begin our journey in Aquileia, today a small town of about three thousand residents, where the remarkable legacy of its Roman past remains prominent. Back then, it was the most important city in what is now known as Triveneto, with an estimated population of about one hundred thousand people. Visiting this town, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1998, would typically require at least half a day; however, to fully appreciate its historical significance, we would recommend you plan to spend a full day here. Key highlights include the original fourth-century Basilica, the beautifully preserved mosaic floor in the southern Aula, the impressive Roman Forum and the River Port, a key site for maritime trade and the legendary departure point for Aquileia’s inhabitants seeking refuge in the lagoons that is said to have given rise to the founding of Venice. While some historians dispute the veracity of this narrative, the infamous ‘Sack of Aquileia’ by the Huns in 452 was certainly a turning point in the city’s history. Once you have finished discovering Aquileia, enjoy a welcome break at Pasticceria Mosaico with a taste of the original Dolce Aquileia created by master pastry chef Piero Zerbin, before continuing past Cervignano del Friuli in the direction of Strassoldo. This is where you will visit the first private historical residence. The Castello di Strassoldo di Sopra would in fact serve as a great base for exploring Aquileia and Palmanova, given its strategic location between the two centres and the availability of five holiday homes on the property. The castle’s history dates back centuries, with documents noting its existence as early as 530 AD. It is possible to tour the remains of the Castle, which actually consisted of two twin castles, as well as the main palazzo, the fortified village and the gardens. Visits take place all year round, by prior appointment. The best time to visit is in the spring when the gardens are in full bloom. After the castle, we suggest you drive straight to another nearby UNESCO city. Palmanova is unique in the world due to its unique urban design, which has been preserved intact for over 400 years. Founded as a fortress city by the Venetian Republic or ‘Serenissima’ in 1593, it features a nine-pointed star shape designed to enhance its defensive capabilities. At its core is the majestic Piazza d’Armi or Piazza Grande, surrounded by 11 statues and hexagonal in shape, perfectly embodying the theories of the ‘ideal city’ which held such fascination during Renaissance times. Should you be feeling hungry, the perfect stop for refreshments or a simple coffee or aperitif has to be Caffetteria Torinese in the very same square. The café has been serving happy customers since 1938 and has twice been awarded Gambero Rosso’s ‘Bar of the Year’ prize.
Just a short distance from Palmanova are three historical residences which are well worth visiting. The first is Villa Manin Guerresco on the outskirts of Clauiano village, which is part of the circuit of the most beautiful villages in Italy and is famed for its distinctive split-stone houses. Constructed in the second half of the 17th century by the noble Manin family, it later became the property of the Guerresco family. The Villa is now open to visitors for tours of the house and garden. Private events are hosted here, and accommodation is provided in six guest rooms. In Clauiano’s main square you will find Casa Foffani, which has belonged to the Calligaris family since its inception, as verified by documents dating back to 1608 and 1687. It is currently managed by Maria Calligaris’s son, Giovanni Foffani, who is also at the helm of the Foffani winery. In addition to visiting the residence, guests can opt for a visit to the cellar with a wine tasting, along with a special reservation-only visit to see the complete works of anthroposophic painter Margherita Gabrielli displayed in the old granary. In terms of accommodation, an apartment with a garden is available for guests. Just a little further along the road, Villa Elodia is situated in Trivignano Udinese. This architectural gem from the mid-17th century consists of a central building with a grand external staircase and two slightly set-back side structures. The interiors are decorated with frescoes, stuccoes and neoclassical designs, beautifully set off by the original ‘Venetian terrace’ flooring. Named after Elodia Orgnani Martina, who purchased the Villa in 1954, it is now managed by her descendants, who offer it as a venue for private events with catering options. The property can be rented for weekly stays; services to be arranged with the owners.
Drive across the bridge over the Torre River and take the road leading to the border with Slovenia. You are now entering the province of Gorizia, passing through the Collio region on your way to Cormons. Collio is one of Italy’s premier regions for fine white wines, and it is also gaining recognition in the sparkling wine sector, primarily those made from the indigenous Ribolla Gialla grape. Numerous wineries await visitors, including Castello di Spessa, which is not only a top wine producer but also boasts a wine resort, complete with a golf course and Vinum Spa.
Our following destination is Gorizia, where we recommend you begin by exploring the castle that serves as the city’s most significant landmark. It dates back to the 11th century and today houses the Museum of Gorizian Medieval History. Next up is the charming Piazza della Vittoria where the Church of Sant’Ignazio and the Duomo are positioned. Essential to include in your peregrinations is the Museum of the Great War, which recounts the tragic events of World War I that occurred on this territory and in the surrounding hills. Another ‘must-see’ is the former border of “Transalpina”, with the ‘wall’ that divided the city in 1947, separating the part that remained Italian from the peripheral districts and the Transalpina railway station, which were annexed to Yugoslavia. In essence, this mirrored the situation taking place in Berlin. For lunch, be sure to try the local dishes at the Al Ponte del Calvario trattoria, which specialises in typical Central European cuisine. For an exquisite dining experience, Antonia Klugmann’s restaurant comes highly recommended. L’Argine a Vencò is located in the Collio region.
Upon departure from Gorizia, follow the course of the Isonzo River, making stops at two consequential sites related to the Great War: firstly, the Museum of Monte San Michele, the site of a brutal battle during which the Austro-Hungarian army employed the use of chemical weapons, specifically phosgene. The second place is the Redipuglia Military Memorial, where the remains of 100,000 casualties of war are buried. After Redipuglia, continue on to Villesse and then to the rural village of Tapogliano and the majestic Villa Pace. Commissioned in the mid-1600s by Carlo Maria Pace, Field Marshal for Emperor Leopold I, the residence has remained in the family for every generation since then. Visitors can admire the impressive double-height ballroom and recently restored 18th-century murals, the oldest known depictions in Italy of Captain James Cook’s voyages, alongside tasting wines from the Perusini winery. One of the barchesse barns is now utilised for private events and as a champagne bar, while the Villa itself is open for visits for guided tours by appointment and can be rented for private and corporate functions, photo shoots and film productions, as well as being available as a holiday home.
Ten minutes’ drive away in Ruda is Villa Iachia, established between 1870 and 1880 as the principal residence for the Iachia family farm. This property has had a rather tumultuous past: it served as a field hospital during World War I and later became the target of persecution under racial laws, leading to its requisition by the German army. Today, the Villa is not only open to visitors but is also rented for private events and has rooms reserved for guests. From here, take one last detour to Ronchi dei Legionari, home to both Trieste’s airport and the final historical residence on our itinerary. Villa Marchese de’ Fabris was built at the end of the 17th century at the behest of Marquis Ottavio de Fabris to celebrate his marriage to Countess Savorgnan. The Salone delle Feste is suitably festive, as it is adorned with shades of antique pink embellished with white stucco. It also displays an original painting depicting the King of Poland. Visits are by reservation only. The Villa can be hired out for private events and ceremonies.
After leaving Ronchi, proceed towards the coast, crossing the Isonzo River one last time and making your way to Grado, the main seaside resort of the province of Gorizia. The delightful historic centre of this lovely town reflects the Venetian style; here, too, the streets are called ‘calli’ and the squares are referred to as ‘campi‘. Be sure to pay your respects at the Basilica of Sant’Eufemia and take a ferry to the Island of Barbana and its Sanctuary, one of the oldest Marian sanctuaries in the world. At this point, we just have the concluding leg to cover, which is arguably the most picturesque: crossing the long lagoon bridge to return to Aquileia, where our adventure first began.
