Our journey through the Marche area begins at the coast and contains a highly developed network of roads, motorways and railways. Once you then begin to drive inland, we guarantee you will fall head over heels in love with a region that knows exactly how to captivate visitors, due to its authentic character and rich history. The homeland of many great poets, painters and musicians, the Marche is a treasure chest of artistic marvels and impeccably preserved villages. It is also a hub for artisanal crafts and is renowned for its exceptional agricultural products, particularly those obtained from organic farming (traditionally, this province has never adopted any so-called ‘conventional’ farming methods), thanks to a group of visionary entrepreneurs near the Romagna border. This first itinerary, located in the northern part of the Marche, is the longest of the three we propose in terms of distance. However, it is the easiest to navigate as it primarily follows the Adriatic coastline. This route is ideal for summer travellers who enjoy combining cultural visits with time spent relaxing on the beach, as well as those who prefer the tranquillity and ease of parking in off-season coastal spots.
We begin our journey in Senigallia, which is undoubtedly the most famous coastal town in the whole territory, and the site of the ‘Rotonda sul Mare’ circular pavilion. It has become a mecca for gourmet cuisine enthusiasts, boasting two of its most prestigious restaurants, celebrated across the entire country: Uliassi (three Michelin stars), with chef Mauro Uliassi in the kitchen and his maître d’ sister Catia in the dining room, and La Madonnina del Pescatore (two Michelin stars), run by chef and entrepreneur Moreno Cedroni. Besides exquisite fine dining, Senigallia is reputed for the smooth sand of its velvety beach, or ‘spiaggia di velluto’, and a famous fortress called the ‘Rocca Roveresca’ which was commissioned by the Della Rovere family. There are a number of other historical and religious landmarks nearby. Several charming villages await exploration in the surrounding area, such as Corinaldo, with its perfectly preserved walls encircling it and at its centre the first of many Italian-style theatres we will encounter on our travels around a region known as the “land of a hundred theatres”: the Teatro Goldoni.
Not to be missed in Corinaldo is the birthplace of its most famous adopted daughter, Saint Maria Goretti, who was born here on 16 October 1890. Just a few kilometres from Senigallia lies our first historical residence, Palazzo Antonelli Augusti Martines, also called as the ‘Palazzo of a Hundred Windows’. Originally a Roman fortress founded in 150 BC, it was later transformed into a monastery and eventually became the castle of the Antonelli counts of Gubbio and Pergola. In 1759, it assumed its current form at the behest of Count Nicola Antonelli, who became a cardinal during the papacy of Clement XIII. He entrusted its design to Vanvitelli and his pupil Andrea Vici, enlisting the greatest artists of the time for the paintings and decorations. Still owned by the descendants of the Antonelli family, the Palazzo hosted notable figures such as Churchill, D’Annunzio and Hemingway during the 20th century. Visits can be arranged by appointment, and it is possible to organise accommodation in one of the two structures inside the property, the Locanda della Cavalleria and the Domus Augusti. Guests can enjoy breakfast in the historic park or in the throne room. Before leaving Senigallia, we do of course have a couple of recommendations. For ice cream lovers with a sweet tooth, Paolo Brunelli‘s shop is a must-visit. His delicious confectioneries are famed throughout Italy. Art jewellery enthusiasts, meanwhile, will be enchanted by Franco Staccioli‘s boutique in the city centre.
After Senigallia, head straight to Ancona to explore the wonders of the regional capital of the Marche. We don’t suggest you stop off along the way, because the coastline between these two cities consists mostly of industrial and port areas, which aren’t as picturesque. You can enter Ancona either from the hillside if you take the motorway route or from the port via State Road 16, which offers a view of the pentagonal 18th-century building called the Mole Vanvitelliana. Plan to spend at least one day in Ancona, with the option of including a relaxing break at Passetto beach, in which case we suggest an overnight stay at the Grand Hotel Palace, a four-star hotel in a recently renovated historic building. Ancona’s key attractions include the aforementioned Mole, also known as the ‘Lazzaretto’ and once used to quarantine the sick, the neo-classical Teatro delle Muse and the Loggia dei Mercanti, which historically facilitated trade negotiations in the commercial maritime port. Take it gently as you follow the route to the centre, as the road is fairly steep. You will come across the city’s most important church, the Duomo dedicated to San Ciriaco, built with white and pink limestone from Mount Conero and offering the best views of Ancona. Nearby are the remains of the Roman Amphitheatre, which used to accommodate up to 10,000 spectators. From here, our walk continues for about half an hour, though it could take you a little longer while you enjoy a spot of window shopping along the central Corso Garibaldi, crossing Piazza Cavour and Viale della Vittoria, before finally reaching Passetto. Besides the Monument to the Fallen war memorial here, this is also where you can walk down to the sea via a large flight of steps. The beach here is quite basic: those looking for somewhere with more amenities can take a short trip to Portonovo in the Conero park, where you’ll find larger beach establishments like La Capannina di Portonovo.
Leaving Ancona, continue along the coast, passing through the tourist destinations of Sirolo, Numana and Marcelli, after which you will begin to catch a glimpse of the outline of the main pilgrimage site in the Marche region. This is the Sanctuary of the Madonna of Loreto, a place of great importance to Christianity, as it contains the Holy House of Nazareth, where Mary was born. According to tradition, the three stone walls were transported to Loreto in 1294 after the Crusaders were expelled from Palestine. Not far from Loreto is the town of Recanati, the birthplace of the greatest Italian poet of the 19th century, Giacomo Leopardi. His home is now a museum and open to the public, displaying the rooms where his “frenzied and desperate” studies took place and including a visit of the monumental library curated by his father, Monaldo, with its collection of precious volumes. After immersing yourselves in so much culture, you will be ready for a good lunch. Given its vicinity, the top choice is a runaway winner: Andreina is a celebrated restaurant in Loreto; chef and owner Errico Recanati proposes a host of inventive dishes, including his iconic grilled cacio e pepe pasta.
After visiting Civitanova Marche, particularly the upper town (with its historic Annibal Caro theatre, the Pinacoteca Civica Moretti modern art gallery, the former Church of Saint Augustine, the Art Nouveau Tram Station, the Museum of Arts and Popular Traditions and the Historical Museum of Trotting), head into the province of Fermo. In Porto Sant’Elpidio, you will find our second historical residence: Villa Il Castellano. The central part of this Villa was constructed in 1625 for Annibale Maggiori Colonna di Leca Guerrieri. Over the years, it has been graced by notable figures such as Vittorio Emanuele I of Savoy, Joachim Murat, Jérôme Bonaparte and various members of the Roman aristocracy. Today owned by the Scoccini family, it serves as a venue for corporate events, film shoots, private parties and ceremonies.
A short distance away is our third historical residence. However, beware if you a shoe enthusiast! This part of the Marche presents all too many pleasant temptations if so, as this is the location of the most important footwear district in Italy, with numerous opportunities for bargain shopping in one of the many factory outlets on your route. The best known of these belongs to the Tod’s Group, located in Casette d’Ete, but there are many more catering to women, men and children (for teenagers, try Monte Urano). The residence in question, Villa Santa Maria al Poggio, is situated in Porto San Giorgio, the main seaside resort in the Fermano area. Constructed in the second half of the 19th century on the ruins of an ancient watchtower close to Porto San Giorgio (which was historically referred to as the ‘port of Fermo’), this neo-Renaissance style villa spans four floors, each with its own personality and charm. It features a library, a votive chapel and a grand central hall that was traditionally used for gatherings and balls. The Villa can be hired for ceremonies and events and there are additionally three suites available for guests.
Crossing the Aso River, you will enter the province of Ascoli Piceno province. The final historical residence on our itinerary is to be found in the delightful town of Grottammare. Palazzo Palmaroli, named after the family who built it, is located in a hilltop village that has stunning views over the Grottammare Riviera. Here you can admire the ceiling decorations, mostly repainted around the mid-19th century by local painter Pietro Picca, and the walls of the top third-floor apartment, decorated by San Benedetto painter Giuseppe Pauri, featuring imaginative views of the sea towards San Benedetto del Tronto and the hills of Grottammare. Our journey concludes in nearby San Benedetto, the main centre of the palm-tree lined Riviera delle Palme, the ideal spot to partake in a lunch or dinner sampling the freshest of fish dishes. This town is one of Italy’s top fishing capitals. It is ranked ninth nationally, although Ancona holds the third overall position. While you are there, be sure to try the chic restaurant of the local fishermen’s cooperative, Ristoro al Porto, while good alternatives are the Da Zia Cicci or Da Rita trattorias.
