This itinerary aims to delve deep into the area around Perugia, the capital of a relatively small region in the centre of the country, often affectionately referred to as the ‘green heart of Italy’.
The very mention of this city’s name immediately summons up images of art, culture and history – values that can be considered fundamental to life itself.
For centuries, Perugia – whose origins were Etruscan, dating back even earlier than the Roman period – was one of the most important seats of the Papal States, second only to Rome and Bologna. It was a Guelph city which never aligned itself with the imperial forces, yet which fiercely maintained its independence from papal authority. Throughout much of the Middle Ages, it was a battleground for intense rivalries among a few prominent families, some representing the common people and others heralding from the entrenched feudal class that gradually moved into the city, which had meantime become the most significant in Umbria. The history of Perugia is thus not only closely linked to the conflicts between the Baglioni and the Oddi families, or, to be more specific, the degli Oddi dynasty, with the ‘nuptial bloodbath’ of 15 July 1500 (a violent confrontation that occurred during a wedding celebration meant to unify the two rival families which devolved into bloodshed, leading to a massacre that underscored the intense animosity between the factions), and pivotal moments in the evolution of Italian art, with the example of Raphael, the illustrious pupil of Pietro Perugino, who painted many remarkable and perhaps unsurpassed works here. There were also underground disputes with the local Municipality, where the city corporations that gathered in the Collegio del Cambio and the Mercanzia grew increasingly influential, against the control of the Apostolic Legates, who, upon their arrival from Rome, were frequently met with overt hostility (and were even literally defenestrati or thrown out of windows and forcibly removed) by its rebellious citizens. This tension culminated in 1540 with the complete dismantling of the city’s autonomy, leading to the destruction of the Baglioni’s residences and the building of the Rocca Paolina fortrrss by Sangallo, resulting in the city’s final subjugation to the authority of the Roman Supreme Pontiff.
This all feels light years away today, as the city – still very highly regarded for its prestigious university – strives to create a modern identity that highlights significant events taking place in its different neighbourhoods. These periods of both national and international importance include Eurochocolate, scheduled for the latter half of November and this year celebrating its thirtieth anniversary, as well as the Umbria Jazz concerts, which take place in the height of the summer months right in the centre, although the festival has now been expanded to Terni and Orvieto.
Perugia is strategically positioned at the core of several routes leading to the most notable spiritual and religious city in Italy (the Vatican excluded, of course). Assisi is half an hour away by car but can also be walked in five hours or so, as is witnessed annually with the Peace March held every October. It is close to Lago Trasimeno, the largest lake in central-southern Italy, which is a very popular tourist destination during the summer period.
As is to be expected, Perugia boasts some of the best hotels in the region, both in the city and in the immediate vicinity. The Borgobrufa Spa Resort, situated just a few kilometres from the centre, features a 3,000 square metre spa, the largest locally and one of the best equipped in the country. Discerning tourists may choose to stay at Centumbrie, an initiative created by entrepreneur Michele Cinaglia and his wife Marilena Menicucci to promote development in the Trasimeno area, who have overseen the restoration of six farmhouses, including Villa La Cotogna, the birthplace of fashion designer Luisa Spagnoli. Within the city, visitors can also find Sina Brufani, a true gem in a prime location, with a wellness area complete with swimming pool set beneath medieval arches, revealing the remains of an ancient Etruscan settlement. In terms of dining, Umbria is experiencing a moment of great effervescence, with three new Michelin stars awarded in the 2024 edition, one of which is located in Perugia. This is the first time a female chef, Ada Stifani, has received this honour for her restaurant Ada Gourmet on Via del Bovaro, a cause for general jubilation. There is another Michelin-starred restaurant at Elementi Fine Dining in Borgobrufa, helmed by renowned chef Andrea Impero from Campania, who is a strong proponent and advocate of local ‘made in Umbria’ ingredients.
We begin our exploration of Perugia starting from Lake Trasimeno, where we recommend you pay a visit to the charming village of Passignano sul Trasimeno, from which you can take a ferry to the Isola Maggiore island and its Guglielmi Castle. Following the lake, continue on towards Magione, an urban centre dating back to the 12th century, which housed the Castello di Magione winery until 2009. This winery is still affiliated with the Order of Malta, and its historic buildings house barrels and containers dedicated to the ageing of vinsanto dessert wine.
Travelling along State Road SS278, proceed towards the Tiber Valley as far as the hamlet of Pierantonio. From there, head southwards towards Perugia, making a detour en route at the first historical residence on our itinerary. One of the five medieval castles included in the expansive 600-hectare Tenuta di Bagnara is Castello di Pieve San Quirico, which dates back to the 11th century and is now available for exclusive rentals. The Tenuta also features tower apartments, pastures, woods and farms, stretching approximately 6 km along the Tiber River. Since 1901, the estate has been owned by the Giunta Tremi family, descendants of Napoleon Bonaparte, and it offers various amenities, including a panoramic 120-square-metre saltwater swimming pool. Not far from Tenuta di Bagnara is Villa Taticchi, initially built as a watchtower on the banks of the Tiber before being expanded and modified to its current size. This Villa has a spacious garden and tower, and provides six bedrooms and an in-house restaurant, as well as services such as a swimming pool, a sports centre and a wellness area. It is available for hosting private events and ceremonies. From here, carry on along the Tiber until you reach Ponte Felcino, then make your way to the heart of Perugia, where three more historical residences await. Before discovering them in detail, however, let’s take a look at what the Umbrian capital has in store and identify the many “must-see” attractions the city offers visitors.
The itinerary we propose covers a full day at least, beginning with a tour of the celebrated Rocca Paolina fortress, immortalised by Carducci in his ‘Canto dell’Amore’ poem. This site was constructed at the behest of Pope Paul III and contains a network of underground passages composed of houses, streets, grand arches and stairways. Piazza IV Novembre is considered the true centre, with its monumental fountain, the ‘Fontana Maggiore’, created by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano. Nearby is the statue of Pope Julius III and the majestic Gothic Cathedral dedicated to San Lorenzo. Next stop is Palazzo dei Priori, which houses the Collegio del Cambio, known for the frescoes painted by Perugino and beautifully conserved in the Sala dell’Udienza. However, the shining star of this palazzo is the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, the most important museum of the region, which showcases breath-taking artworks spanning seven centuries. Here you can admire an extensive collection of Umbrian artworks from the 13th to the 16th century, with works by Nicolò Alunno, Benozzo Gozzoli, Bartolomeo Caporali, Piero della Francesca, Luca Signorelli, Perugino and Pinturicchio.
There are many other monuments in the city worth noting. Perugia is home to a well-preserved medieval aqueduct and the famous Porta Sole, which once served as the ancient gate of the Etruscan walls, not to mention the Etruscan Arch, Porta Marsia, which is embedded within the buttresses of Rocca Paolina, together with the spectacular Porta San Pietro. This gate, along with the façade of the Oratory of San Bernardino, is one of the masterpieces by Agostino di Duccio, a key figure in Italian Renaissance art. From Porta San Pietro, you can access the Benedictine Cathedral of the same name, which is one of the most beautiful churches in Italy, richly adorned with paintings that evoke the splendour of a lavish Venetian church.
Between visits, take the opportunity to purchase some of the local specialities, of which there are plenty, and not all of them gastronomic. For instance, Perugia is renowned for being a key player in the global cashmere market, with notable brands like Brunello Cucinelli. This company, with its associated factory outlet, is situated in the village of Solomeo, approximately fifteen kilometres from the historic heart of the metropolis. Right in the city, meanwhile, you will be spoilt for choice. Corso Vannucci is the ideal spot to pick up an item of clothing or a high-quality sweater crafted in the Umbrian region. Naturally, chocolate lovers are sure to find what they are looking for at the Eurochocolate official store (open all year round) on the same street, or at the Perugina Chocolate Factory, or in one of the various other boutiques close by. The rich local heritage similarly includes traditions in ceramics and pottery, textile craftsmanship, wrought iron and woodwork. Aside from chocolate, the area is known for agri-food products, such as extra virgin olive oil and artisanal beer, both of which are constantly gaining in popularity, not to mention wine production, with numerous wineries to explore just outside the city. A notable example is Lungarotti in Torgiano, outstanding not only for its exceptional wines but also for being home to Italy’s first wine museum, Muvit – Museo del Vino Torgiano, established over fifty years ago by Giorgio Lungarotti and his wife Maria Grazia. More recently, the MOO or Museum of Olives and Olive Oil, section was added.
We now come to the historical residences in Perugia mentioned earlier. The first is Palazzo Sorbello, located in Piazza Piccinino and adjacent to the Cathedral in the middle of the city. This 17th-century building, which once belonged to the Bourbon Marquises of Sorbello, is the headquarters of the Ranieri di Sorbello Foundation. It is open for visits every morning without prior reservation, with specific afternoon hours available depending on the season. Upon reservation, special guided tours can be arranged, including breakfasts, aperitifs or light lunches. Next is the Fondazione Marini Clarelli Santi, a house-museum created in the ancient Palazzo degli Oddi on Via dei Priori in the medieval district of Porta Santa Susanna. This museum can be visited on specific days and times (Monday from 16:00 to 17:30, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 10:30 to 12:00), while alternative hours can be arranged in advance for groups or special requests. The palazzo features a spacious frescoed hall suitable for hosting private events and book presentations, with a number of adjoining rooms suitable for refreshments or exhibitions.
Leaving Perugia and heading towards Torgiano, you will pass by San Martino in Campo, where there is a charming hotel set within a late 16th-century historical residence. Inside Villa Posta Donini is a concert hall whose walls are entirely covered with paintings from the Francesco Appiani school. There is also an 18th-century chapel containing an impressive altarpiece by Appiani, depicting St. Philip Neri and the Madonna. The estate comprises two hectares of parkland, and visitors can admire a mausoleum dedicated to Countess Laura Donini from 1850 and a dovecote entirely painted to resemble wood from the same period. Further along a pathway are five Etruscan urns from the 3rd century BC. The property has been owned since 1999 by engineer Ennio Mencaroni, who has developed hospitality projects as well as organising private events and ceremonies on the premises.
Our journey concludes in the municipality of Marsciano along the banks of the Caina river, where we will visit Castello Monticelli. This location serves as an excellent starting point for a second itinerary that will lead us through other areas of Umbria. For now, however, the Castello is an ideal place to end our route and maybe spend a night (or two) in its B&B, or in one of the several apartments available for rent in the castle and the tower. Guests can soak up the atmosphere of the peaceful surroundings and learn about the history of this residence, whose origins date back to the early 12th century. Initially a Benedictine monastery, it is believed that the three oldest towers originated earlier in the early Middle Ages, and it was later transformed into a noble summer home. Anyone choosing to stay overnight will be able to discover the special cultural route that has been created and uncover ancient chapels, castles and other monasteries nestled in the surrounding small medieval villages, all set against enchanting landscapes and rich in artworks by renowned artists, including Perugino himself.
