Discover the hidden, more spiritual side of Tuscany: a land of dense forests, sacred places of worship and strategically positioned castles that historically protected the region from threats coming from the Adriatic coast and provided a route to Rome. This itinerary wends its way through the province of Arezzo, including a stop in its capital city, offering a sort of cultural break in what would otherwise be a comfortable two-day trip. By following our recommendations, however, you can extend your journey, and indeed the very nature of this travel plan encourages leisurely pauses, making it a perfect ‘slow travel’ circuit within the Tuscany region. Our adventure begins close to the Casentino forests.
The Castello di Porciano, situated in the town of Stia and accessible via Bibbiena, is open to the public and can also be rented in its entirety, which consists of five bedrooms and three bathrooms. Alternatively, it is possible to reserve just the small guard tower which stands on the remnants of the ancient city walls and is ideally suited for couples. This Castle – which, like many others in Tuscany and Romagna, was owned by the Guidi Counts – is an ideal base for an extended stay: from Stia, you are a stone’s throw away from the Casentino Forests National Park, which promotes environmentally friendly agricultural methods as identified by a register that includes a list of all the recommended farms. Key attractions include Camaldoli, a community of Benedictine monks established more than a thousand years ago, who happily open their doors to welcome visitors wishing to explore the monastery, its sacred hermitage and the ancient pharmacy. The nearby Falterona and Fumaiolo mountains are respectively the sources of the well-known Arno and Tiber rivers. The village of Stia, known for its wool industry, is home to a restored ancient woollen mill which now serves as a museum. And we could not leave this area without recommending you savour the culinary delights of Il Tirabusciò, which has been awarded the prestigious ‘Slow Food’ certification. Our top tips? Try the pigeon stew served in a clay pot, the ‘Grigio del Casentino’ pig sausages and the fresh handmade tortelli stuffed with potatoes and served with a ragù sauce, the ingredients of which have been regionally sourced.
Our next destination is Borgo Sansepolcro, the birthplace of Piero della Francesca. Be sure to visit the Civic Museum here to admire the masterpieces of this renowned Aretine artist, including the famous ‘Polyptych of the Misericordia’. On the way to Sansepolcro, you could choose to take a mini detour to pay homage to the place of birth of another great artist, none other than the man who created the frescoes throughout the Sistine Chapel: Michelangelo Buonarroti was born at the Castle of Caprese. The main focus of our trip before crossing into Umbria, however, is to see the final place on our Tuscan list: Palazzo Bourbon del Monte, a Renaissance building located in the centre of the nearby village, which houses the Aboca Museum. As part of an educational initiative by a medicinal plant cultivation and processing company, there are two main permanent exhibitions here. The first, entitled “Herbs and Health Through the Centuries”, demonstrates the centuries-old relationship between humans and medicinal plants, with displays and faithful reconstructions of ancient herb processing sites. The second exhibit, the “Aboca Experience”, offers a multimedia journey with interactive installations, providing a comprehensive visitor experience. Products can be purchased in the herbal shop inside the Palazzo, and the top floor also houses the ‘Bibliotheca Antiqua’, a library which is generally closed to the public but accessible by appointment for scholars, researchers and enthusiasts. For dining in the vicinity, you need look no further than ‘Da Alighiero’ in nearby Anghiari, the site of the famous battle in 1440 which is commemorated in the local civic museum. This restaurant has been commended in the Michelin Guide for offering great value for money.
Continuing our journey towards the third historical residence, Castello di Montozzi, we find Arezzo perfectly positioned at the mid-point along the route from Sansepolcro to Pergine Valdarno, where this ancient castle, dating back to the year 1000, is situated. This is the ‘città dell’oro’ or ‘city of gold’, and jewellery enthusiasts can admire the works of Giovanni Raspini, one of the leading figures in the craft of goldsmithing, showcased among other boutiques lining the central Corso Italia. While awaiting the reopening – hopefully any day soon – of the historic Caffè dei Costanti, recently acquired by the head of Prada, Patrizio Bertelli, there are many other places where you can sample the local specialities, such as ‘La Bottega di Gnicche’, which serves the best Aretine gastronomic delicacies and is housed in a medieval building right in front of Vasari’s loggias. For your accommodation, we propose the La Migliarina agritourism in Bucine, owned by the same Bartolini Baldelli family who are the proprietors of the Castle of Montozzi. This residence has an exceptionally rich history, dominating as it did the whole Valdarno area around Arezzo and serving as a central hub for a large farming community. It remained self-sufficient until the 1950s, when silk and hemp were also woven there. The guided visit of Montozzi includes a tour of the late-seventeenth-century villa, the historic park and the church. The agricultural estate offers various lodging options and is the perfect place to taste and purchase flour made from ancient grains, extra virgin olive oil and wines produced with locally grown grapes.
Proceeding on from Pergine, there are just two more stops on our itinerary, and both are relatively close by. The first is the Castelletto di Montebenichi in the town of Montebenichi near Bucine. This ancient 12th-century fortress has been converted into a charming residence with four apartments available for rent for a minimum three-day stay and includes a park with a swimming pool. The furnishings are part of the owners’ personal art collections, enhancing its magical atmosphere. After a half-hour’s drive from Montebenichi, you will arrive at the Castle of Gargonza, the fifth and final historical residence on our tour of the Arezzo province. The delightful hamlet here has been transformed into a hospitality venue, providing 47 rooms and accommodating over a hundred guests. The Castle, which hosted Dante Alighieri in 1304, was lovingly restored by Count Roberto Guicciardini Corsi Salviati. Today, it offers a host of different options and amenities, including several pools inside and outside the village walls, private event and corporate meeting facilities, a restaurant proposing traditional Tuscan cuisine called “La Torre di Gargonza”, a conference hall seating 140 and four smaller meeting rooms. The medieval tower within the village has likewise been fully restored and features a room on the third floor with access onto a terrace, guaranteeing its visitors an unforgettable panorama.
