This tour begins in the historic center of Turin and forms a loop around a city that was formerly governed by the Savoy dynasty. It encompasses a number of private residences and castles in the surrounding area and extends into the geographical region of Canovese and Ivrea. Our itinerary provides the perfect opportunity for exploring two UNESCO World Heritage sites: namely, the properties owned by the House of Savoy and Ivrea, a city that represents 20th-century industrialisation at its best. The first part of the trip naturally includes a detailed visitation of the heart of Turin, for anyone who is unfamiliar with the multi-faceted top city of Piedmont, with its one-of-a-kind artistic and cultural heritage. Among the key ‘must-see’ sites in a city which was also considered the first capital of Italy following its unification in 1861 are Piazza Castello, the Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista, the Mole Antonelliana (which houses the National Museum of Cinema) and a stroll along Via Po, with a walk around Valentino Park. However, no visit of Turin would be complete without an exploration of the Egyptian Museum, the Royal Museums and a detour to discover some of the city’s historic institutions, including the San Carlo, Platti, Baratti & Milano and Al Bicerin cafés. For a fine dining experience, we cannot recommend the Del Cambio restaurant highly enough. Don’t be alarmed if you happen to see a long queue outside the adjacent Farmacia del Cambio pastry shop and café, though – the wait to taste their invention of the famous Crubik cube-shaped croissant is more than justified! Among Turin’s typical taverns, otherwise known as the Piole, we suggest you try Le Antiche Sere, which is also featured in the Michelin Guide, and Le Putrelle in the San Salvario district.
Upon leaving Turin, drive in the direction of the Castle of Rivoli, which was first documented back in 1159 and became part of the Savoy domain in 1247. It is now home to one of the country’s most important contemporary art museums. Continue on to Avigliana, known to the locals for its castle and twin lakes. A historical residence set within a park, Casa Riva is located on the shore of the larger lake and has its own private dock with direct access onto the water. This lakeside Bed & Breakfast is an ideal spot for extending your journey, offering you the chance to spend a couple of relaxing days in a beautiful setting along the road to the village of Giaveno. From here, head back to Orbassano and visit the Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi royal hunting lodge, one of Piedmont’s most prestigious Savoy Residences and a prime example of Rococo architecture. In 1919, the halls of the Palazzina were transformed, and the Museo dell’Arte e Arredamento was inaugurated. Over the course of the 20th century, this art and furnishings museum grew into one of Turin’s top tourist attractions. Our itinerary continues as you cross the Po River and take the ring road, exiting at Carmagnola. Before reaching the location from which the Count named in Manzoni’s famous tragedy hailed (Francesco I da Carmagnola), we propose you take a break at Villastellone, where Borgo Cornalese is situated. This architectural complex features the 18th-century Villa dei Conti de Maistre, a large 16-hectare park, a 16th-century mill, an ancient village with two agricultural courtyards covering over 11,000 square metres that currently are being restored, and a beautiful neo-classical church. The Borgo is frequently chosen as a prime spot for film shoots. Our next destination is Castello di Pralormo, whose origins date back to the Middle Ages. The Castle was later transformed into a noble residence and is still inhabited by the Beraudo di Pralormo family, who have owned it since 1680. Temporary exhibitions have been hosted here since the 1990s, enabling the public to enjoy the park, the grounds and the castle. In addition to tours, the property also serves as a venue for private events and ceremonies, and provides five guest apartments for accommodation.
Continuing our journey around Turin and its surroundings, Pessione is next on the agenda, complete with a unique tourist proposition: for it is here that Martini, the renowned liqueur company, has created its very own house-museum and Vermouth Experience. From Pessione, head towards Chieri with its Freisa di Chieri DOC wine production, which is the home of the local wine protection consortium, as well as being a historical centre for textile manufacturing, with a dedicated museum. After visiting Chieri and its monuments, including the Duomo and the triumphal arch erected in 1580 in honour of Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy, make your way to Arignano to explore another historical residence, the Castello delle Quattro Torri. This is the only Renaissance-style castle in the whole of Piedmont, and possibly all of Northern Italy, and it has remained unchanged without any significant alterations or additions over the centuries. Built between the 15th and 17th centuries by the Costa degli Albussani family, it was acquired in 1980 by the Zucca family, who have restored it to its former glory. Today, it functions as a private home, a guest house and a venue for private events, but it is opened periodically to the public for guided tours. The next stop is Baldissero Torinese and the Castello di Pavarolo, which was first mentioned in a document dated 1047. The Castle has undergone several modifications over the centuries and has changed hands multiple times before being passed to the Zavattaro Ardizzis, who now live there all year round. The family organise guided tours and provide accommodation for guests in the form of two suites and an apartment.
Our journey now takes us to Casalborgone, where there is another ancient castle, followed by San Sebastiano da Po. Just before entering the municipality, you will see a junction leading to Cascina Caccia, a property previously ‘confiscato alla ‘ndrangheta’ (meaning it was previously related to mafia activities and was confiscated, before being returned to the community in 2007). Today, the Cascina produces honey under the Libera Terra brand. A little further on is the Castello di San Sebastiano, a medieval structure that was renovated in 1761 in the Baroque style, which is now rented out for private events. The Castle’s park contains a classic Italian-style garden featuring boxwood parterres and roses. The name of this small town will definitely ring a bell with food enthusiasts, as San Sebastiano da Po is the location of the pastry shop belonging to Fabrizio Galla, who was awarded with the world pastry championship in 2007 thanks to his delectable prize-winning “Jessica cake”.
At this point, cross the Po River at the river park and drive past Verolengo and then Chivasso, which serves as the gateway to the Canavese region and marks the final stretch before returning to Turin. Highlights here include the Cathedral and the castle, which was built in 1178. For lunch, why not enjoy the local specialities served up at the Locanda del Sole, or try a unique atipica dish at Giachino. Both restaurants are to be found on Via Roma. The name of this region, Canavese, comes from the historic cultivation of hemp that defined an area that is nestled between the Po River and the Aosta Valley. Its main centre is the city of Ivrea, which we suggest you visit after stopping off at two more historic homes. The first is the Castello di Barone Canavese from the 18th century, which has been privately owned since 1954 and is primarily used for cultural events, exhibitions, and conferences, and occasionally for private parties and ceremonies. It is also possible to stay overnight in the bedrooms on the first floor. The Castle is open for visits by prior appointment. The second residence is Sina Villa Matilde, a noble residence with over three hundred years of history, which today operates as part of the Sina Hotels group. The Villa boasts a centuries-old park, an outdoor swimming pool, a tennis court and a gym with a sauna and steam room. Next, drive past the city walls and enter into the city, where a reenactment of the famous Battle of the Oranges takes place annually during Carnival. The recent history of this tradition is closely tied to the legacy of Olivetti, and you can find out more details about this by visiting the Tecnologic@mente Museum and Workshop and the Mam-Museo Virtuale della Architettura Moderna (the Virtual Museum of Modern Architecture). Ivrea was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2018, due to its 20th-century industrial heritage and its urban and architectural ensemble. Be sure to include a visit to the Duomo and the iconic castle. If time permits, take a scenic tour of the Five Lakes of the Serra d’Ivrea: Lakes Sirio, San Michele, Pistono, Cascinette and Nero. The well-established Osteria San Maurizio near the Roman Bridge on the Dora Baltea is a wonderful option for lunch or dinner.
On the last leg, make one final stop at San Giorgio Canavese, where Villa Malfatti stands. This 18th-century villa was commissioned by opera singer Teresa Belloc, muse to Rossini, and later acquired by Baron Stefano Malfatti di Montetretto, who made some partial modifications to the property. The residence is now used for private events, but also offers rooms with antique furnishings for overnight stays. From here, Turin is just 35 kilometres away, allowing you to either return to the capital quickly via the motorway, or take a less direct route along the provincial road, leaving you the option of incorporating yet more castles, such as the one in Foglizzo or the ruins of Volpiano – the choice is yours!
