This region boasts attractions that have been celebrated long before the success of Andrea Camilleri’s novels, published by Sellerio, brought further fame. The area has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site due to the Baroque architecture to be found within the province of Val di Noto, whose name was derived from the ancient ‘Vallo di Noto’. This term refers to the vast area which encompasses Ragusa, Syracuse and Catania, which was struck by the devastating earthquake in 1693 that destroyed south-eastern Sicily and necessitated the reconstruction of the entire zone. Today, the southern part of Sicily, from Noto to Scicli, and from Marzamemi to Modica and Ibla, is no longer a well-kept secret and has become a destination not only for tourists, but also a refuge for a community of intellectuals, architects and fashion entrepreneurs and designers who find their creative inspiration here. Our journey begins and ends in Syracuse, starting with an exploration of the inland areas and then circling back along the coast.
We recommend you dedicate at least a full day in Syracuse, because there are so many sites to see, starting with the island of Ortigia. This can be accessed from the mainland via Ponte Umbertino or alternatively by crossing Ponte Santa Lucia. If you take the former, you will have the opportunity of saluting the genius that was Archimedes, undoubtedly the most illustrious Syracusan of all time, as his monument is located on the small island in the middle. Upon reaching Ortigia, first make your way to the Temple of Apollo at the heart of the island, a reminder of the historical connection between Syracuse and ancient Greece – a link already highlighted by Archimedes. Also on Ortigia, you will find the museum dedicated to Archimedes and Leonardo da Vinci, celebrating two excellent minds from two different eras, and the Castello Maniace situated at the southernmost tip, which is a masterpiece of Swabian military architecture. Heading west from the fortification, you will come upon the legendary Fonte Aretusa, or Fountain of Arethusa, a water spring that forms a small lake where the only wild papyrus plants in Europe grow. After exploring the Duomo, a prime example of the Baroque architecture that we will encounter very often throughout our itinerary and that is particularly dominant in Noto, along with many noble palazzos in Ortigia, we conclude our tour of the island at the church dedicated to the Virgin of Syracuse, Saint Lucia, where ‘The Burial of Saint Lucia’ by Caravaggio resides. A great choice for a quick bite before crossing the bridge and transferring to the Archaeological Park of Neapolis is the highly acclaimed and award-winning Pizzeria Schiticchio in Ortigia. The archaeological park is home to the 5th-century BC Greek Theatre, renowned worldwide not only as an ancient site but also as a venue for theatrical performances. The season of ancient drama plays organised by the Inda Foundation is held here every year in May and June. Nearby is the ‘Latomia del Paradiso’, where the ‘Orecchio di Dionisio’ (‘Ear of Dionysius’) is to be found, a massive rock with very particular acoustic properties, together with the Altar of Hieron and the Roman Amphitheatre. You can visit the only catacombs in the city open to the public here, close to the ruins of the Church of San Giovanni alle Catacombe. If you are planning to stay overnight, Syracuse offers a host of high-end options including the Grand Hotel or Palazzo Artemide on the island of Ortigia, or the celebrated Il Minareto in the protected area of Plemmirio. For fine dining, the Michelin-starred Cortile Spirito Santo near Castello Maniace offers the finest expression of Sicilian culinary art, while for a taste of local cuisine, we highly recommend Latteria Mamma Iabica.
The next day begins by taking Provincial Road 14, heading inland. After passing Canicattini Bagni, you will arrive at Dimora delle Balze, our first historical residence. This would be the perfect place to stay for a few days using it as a base, given its proximity to Noto, which we will explore on the return to Syracuse. The estate was built in 1800 by a noble family from Palazzolo Acreide, who used it as a farmhouse and summer home. It was abandoned for over 50 years and later purchased by the current owners who have restored it to its former splendour. It now serves as a guesthouse with eleven suites and a venue for private events and ceremonies, featuring a 27-hectare park and a swimming pool. It is also extremely well placed for exploring the surrounding areas like Palazzolo Acreide with its famed Greek Theater of Akrai (Akrai was a Grecian city founded between 664 and 663 B.C.) and I Santoni, an ancient rock sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Cybele. A short distance away is Chiaramonte Gulfi, with its stunning position on the Iblei mountains and a panoramic view so vast that it is nicknamed ‘The Balcony of Sicily’. From this position, you can then continue on to the two most important cities in southern Sicily (excluding Syracuse), namely, Ragusa and Modica. The former warrants a thorough visitation of its historic district, Ibla, with its Cathedral dedicated to St. George, St. John’s Cathedral and the Iblean Garden, which is ideal for cooling off from the hot summer sun under the palm trees. Don’t miss notable noble residences such as Palazzo Cosentini and Palazzo Bertini, which is instantly recognisable due to the three distinctive masks above its windows depicting a beggar, a merchant and a nobleman. Haute cuisine enthusiasts will be drawn to Ibla for the exceptional dining experience at Ciccio Sultano’s Ristorante Duomo, which has been awarded two Michelin stars. We suggest you take time to marvel at the Cinabro workshop, where masters of painting and restoring traditional Sicilian carts are hard at work. Modica, meanwhile, is known to food lovers from all around the world for its unique brand of chocolate, recognised for its Protected Geographical Indication and characterised by its grainy and crumbly texture, which is produced by the coarse sugar granules that are left in the chocolate. However, this city offers visitors so much more than just chocolate! It is divided into two distinct lower and upper parts and features the Necropolis of Quartiriccio with tombs dating back to 2200 BC, a number of glorious churches, including Santa Maria di Betlem with its ancient terracotta nativity scene, San Pietro and the impressive basilica of San Giorgio with its monumental staircase. The house-museum of Modica’s most famous resident, poet and Nobel Prize winner Salvatore Quasimodo, is likewise well worth a visit. As for a place to lay your head, why not choose another of our historical residences, Tenuta Cammarana, in the middle of an 800-hectare estate, which is perfectly located for exploring Ragusa, Modica and nearby Scicli. This property was originally the summer country residence of Baron Sortino Trono and has been owned by the same family for centuries. Today it serves as the summer home of the baron’s nephew, sculptor Giuseppe Pulvirenti, and his wife Silvia La Padula, who have meticulously restored the house, gardens and countless dry-stone walls of the Tenuta into a charming B&B close to the Castello di Donnafugata. It also functions as a farm producing ancient grains and extra virgin olive oil.
The next stop on our itinerary takes us to the southernmost point of Sicily, the ‘Isola delle Correnti’ or Isle of Currents (appropriately named for the converging seas). This can be observed from the Statue of Christ the Redeemer in front of the Lido Scialai, the only beach where you can choose to swim in either the Ionian Sea (to the left) or the Mediterranean Sea (to the right), as this is the precise point where the two seas separate. On windy days, it is possible to see one of the seas turbulent and stormy, while the other remains perfectly calm. The city of Ispica is another gem, with its Baroque palazzos and the Archaeological Park of Cava d’Ispica, halfway between Ispica and Modica. Pachino is well-known for its exceptional PGI cherry and datterini tomatoes, which are available worldwide, but definitely taste even better when eaten directly in situ.
Next, we head to Marzamemi, close to the Vendicari Nature Reserve, to explore the final marvels of this region before reaching the historic centre of Noto. Tonnara Marzamemi is a magical and fascinating place because it was here, around the year 1000, that the Arabs established what would become the most important tuna fishery in eastern Sicily. The current layout of the hamlet dates back to the period from the mid-17th to mid-18th century, and the Prince’s Palace – il Palazzo del Principe – is the work of the great architect Vermexio. The small village consists of the Palazzo, the Loggia degli Scieri (now a lodge, but originally serving as a shelter for the large tuna boats), the church of San Francesco di Paola, the old tuna processing plant and about fifty fishermen’s houses, all surrounding the large Piazza Regina Margherita. After passing Vendicari, the jewel in the crown of the Val di Noto is the town of Noto itself. The city’s baroque splendour is the result of unprecedented post-seismic restoration work following a devastating earthquake, led by the then reconstruction commissioner Giuseppe Lanza, Duke of Camastra, who held the title of Vicar General and who brought the best Sicilian architects trained in Rome to create a new city 8 km away from the old one. Not to be missed in the so-called ‘Capital of Baroque’ are the Porta Reale royal gate, the Church of Santa Chiara, the Cathedral of San Nicolò and the Palazzo dei Principi di Nicolaci. Before returning to Syracuse, you would be remiss not to make your way to Caffè Sicilia, where world-renowned pastry chef Corrado Assenza crafts his unforgettable creations in his pastry lab. If you are staying overnight in the city, the luxurious five-star resort of Il San Corrado di Noto is close at hand for those for whom no expense is spared, while the charming and more accessibly priced Scilla Maris offers a delightful stay immersed in nature, and is also only a short drive from the heart of Noto.
