This itinerary aims to go beyond simply exploring the beautiful coastal regions of Sicily by also venturing into the more authentic and lesser-known parts of the island, which are even more fascinating to discover. Among the towns we will travel to is Canicattì, which, in popular belief is generally considered a rather remote destination, due to its isolation in the past; during the 19th century, the railway network was not able to extend any further than here. The railway line from Caltanissetta to Canicattì was in fact inaugurated in 1876 and for a long period of time was the southernmost section of the railway network in the whole Kingdom of Italy. At that time, travel was only possible on foot or horseback beyond its hills and vineyards. Even though public transport has not made significant strides in the subsequent 150 years, there do now exist a number of train and bus connections. However, travelling by car remains the most practical and sometimes only real feasible way to explore this region of Sicily, as this facilitates easy movement between the provinces of Enna, Caltanissetta and Agrigento and ensures visitors can fully appreciate the magnificent sites and villages along the way.
We start and end our journey in Agrigento, a city that certainly needs little introduction, famed as it for being the home of the celebrated Valley of the Temples – designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. The grandeur and magnificence of the entire valley bear witness to the importance that the city, which was the birthplace of Empedocles, must have held in ancient times. The philosopher’s name also lives on in the nearby town of the same name where the port of Agrigento is located. A quick detour driving west of Porto Empedocle reveals another stunning location, the Scala dei Turchi (literally meaning ‘the Turkish steps’), which is likewise a UNESCO World Heritage site. Catching a glimpse of the white, crumbling cliff face overlooking the sea – now inaccessible on foot to protect the natural landscape – is a truly unforgettable sight. After exploring the Valley of the Temples and the Scala dei Turchi, it is worth spending a bit more time in Agrigento to visit the Pietro Griffo Regional Archaeological Museum, which contains artifacts from temple excavations, along with the Kolymbethra Garden, and showcases the area’s cultural treasures. Don’t miss the chance to visit Luigi Pirandello’s former home, an elegant residence now converted into a museum. The legacy of this Nobel Prize-winning author remains a constant source of pride for the Sicilian people. After shopping along Via Atenea in the heart of the city, be sure to taste the pistachio-based sweet and savoury treats to be found at Le Cuspidi pastry shop and gelateria in the popular Piazza Cavour, as well as the traditional Sicilian cuisine with a contemporary twist at Osteria Expanificio in Piazzetta Sinatra, one of the most interesting angles in the city of temples.
Continuing your journey along State Road 115, you will come upon Palma di Montechiaro, best known for its connection to Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa’s ‘Il Gattopardo’ (‘The Leopard’), followed by Licata, which overlooks the sea. Here you can admire the majestic Castel Sant’Angelo, a Baroque fortress built by the Bourbons in 1640. Fine dining enthusiasts travel primarily to Licata to experience the cuisine of Pino Cuttaia, whose main restaurant, La Madia, is located here. The success of this restaurant has also resulted in the opening of his bistro, Uovodiseppia, in Milan.
Our next stop brings us to the first historical residence of our tour, situated in Butera, which is in the province of Caltanissetta. Castello di Falconara, a 15th-century fortified castle perched on a sea-facing promontory, is available for rent either in its entirety or by reserving individual rooms, all naturally offering a sea view. The sheer beauty and elegance of the Castle make it a perfect venue for celebrating weddings and organising private events and receptions.
Further down the road, Gela presents an absolute treasure trove for those passionate about archaeology in the form of one of Sicily’s most significant museums. From there, head on to Caltagirone, one of the places fondly named as a ‘Città Gratissima’ (meaning ‘Most Grateful City’), indicating that it was greatly favoured by kings in times gone by for its generous donations and support. The Caltagirone region is fairly large, extending into the neighbouring territory of Ragusa despite being part of the metropolitan city of Catania. It enjoys worldwide recognition for its age-old tradition in ceramics, which is still practiced today using the same traditional methods from the past. This is where you will find some of the best ceramic workshops on the island and a Regional Museum dedicated to the history of Sicilian ceramics from prehistoric times to the present. The city’s ancient centre, which includes the Bourbon Prison museum displaying artifacts of its timeless history and the Senate that once governed it, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is included in the list of Baroque Cities on the Val di Noto route.
Among the many glorious churches and noble palazzos in Caltagirone, such as Palazzo Gravina Pace and Palazzo Crescimanno, is Palazzo Spadaro Libertini, the second historical residence on our journey. Standing just a few steps from the unique Santa Maria del Monte Staircase, this residence has belonged to interrelated families for three centuries and has been reconstructed on a pre-existing medieval structure. There are a great many surprises to discover here, starting with the stables on the ground floor and continuing to the first floor, where there is a room carved into the rock and a perfectly preserved water conduit dating back to Roman times, which extends to the city walls and is integrated into the entrance to the Castle leading to the grand State Rooms. These opulent rooms feature elaborate white and gold-trimmed doorframes, Aubusson rugs commissioned from France in the mid-19th century, decorative glasswork and Damask tapestries. The splendid painted ceilings are adorned with artwork by local artists Francesco and Giuseppe Vaccaro, members of the prominent Bongiovanni Vaccaro family, known for its contributions to art and ceramics. The 19th-century Mirror Hall includes an 18th-century ‘marmorino fireplace’, around which members of the notable cultural and artistic initiative called the Arcadia of Caltagirone would gather, together with a Chapel from the same period.
Upon leaving Caltagirone, take the state road that leads to Piazza Armerina, a half hour away. This is a truly remarkable hidden gem in Sicily, a treasure trove of archaeological sites and the home of Villa del Casale. This spectacular Roman structure, dating back to the late imperial era, was uncovered during excavations carried out in 1950. The incredible mosaics on show have rightly earned this place of wonder inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage list. In addition to Villa del Casale, Piazza Armerina also contains a Gothic-Baroque Cathedral dedicated to Maria Santissima delle Vittorie, the Church of San Rocco and the Aragonese Castle. The island’s rich culinary heritage, which is fully reflected in the local food traditions, can be experienced in one of the many trattorias and typical restaurants, where enjoying an excellent lunch or dinner is simply a matter of ‘following your instinct’.
After exploring Piazza Armerina, a visit to the archaeological park of Morgantina and the Archaeological Museum in Aidone is essential. The museum proudly displays the Goddess of Morgantina, a magnificent statue which was returned to Italy after being stolen and sold to the Getty Villa in Malibu.
As if it could not get any better, onwards we go towards Enna, making a couple of interesting stops en route: firstly, at Parco della Ronza, with its small lakes and enclosures housing various animals, and then at the intriguing Pietre Incantate (‘Enchanted Stones’) and Pupi Ballerine (‘Dancing Puppet Stones’), which are unique rock formations with irregular column-like shapes. Before entering Enna, located at the centre of Sicily, why not consider an overnight stay at Masseria Mandrascate, the third historical residence on our itinerary, which is situated a short drive from the city. Arriving at Mandrascate, you will feel as if you have been transported back to a bygone era. Perfectly preserved, the estate has retained all the resplendence of its impressive 17th-century fortified structure, typical of a Sicilian agricultural ‘latifondo’ property. The rear courtyards house six suites for tourist accommodation that have been converted from the original stables, as well as a steward’s house, a carriage house and a saddle room. These suites, while retaining their original charm, are furnished with family antiques and equipped with all modern comforts. The panoramic swimming pool, designed in the characteristic style of ancient Sicilian drinking troughs and using local stone, offers stunning views of the surrounding landscape. Mandrascate is a very popular choice for the hosting of events, receptions, meetings and weddings.
The Sicilian inland region, with its authentic charm, is well worth a visit, particularly the nearby city of Enna, which is often referred to as ‘the terrace of Sicily’ due to its high elevation. It is the highest provincial capital in Italy, rising to nearly one thousand metres at its peak. During your visit, we recommend you take in the Cathedral, the Castello di Lombardia (970 metres above sea level), the panoramic Belvedere Marconi and the tower named after Frederick II, the Torre di Federico II. A stroll down Via Roma is a must, where you will have a chance to relish in a taste of the delicious cannoli available throughout the city, such as those freshly filled at Bar Caffè Roma. For a taste of local cuisine, the tavola calda ready-to-eat fare served at Umbriaco’s, renowned for its excellent arancini since 1974, is a great choice, while Trattoria La Rustica is a great spot for dinner.
After Enna, return on your steps in the direction of Caltanissetta, taking a break at the Special Nature Reserve at the Lago di Pergusa. Spanning 400 hectares, this lake is of extreme naturalistic importance in central Sicily, as the wetland is a key stopover point for migratory birds. Proceed on and cross the aged Ponte di Capodarso bridge (which dates all the way back to 1553!), which leads to the Nature Reserve of Monte Capodarso and Valle dell’Imera Meridionale. This area has been included in the list of sites of Community Importance under EU Directive 92/43/EEC and is part of the European Geoparks Network within the Rocca di Cerere Park. This region is one of the island’s most breath-taking natural landscapes, nestled in the heart of Sicily between the provinces of Enna and Caltanissetta. The area stretches along the Imera Meridionale River and is set between the slopes of Mount Capodarso and Mount Sabucina, offering a rare combination of archaeological and natural splendour. Identified as a territory to be protected and preserved by Italia Nostra Onlus, the association dedicated to the protection and promotion of the country’s historical, artistic and environmental patrimony, this beautiful place offers visitors a chance to experience the miracles and wonders of nature. The river is fed by several tributaries, including the Morello and Torcicoda rivers, which are characterised by their meandering paths. Occasionally, the river creates ponds where various animal species, some of which are endangered, are able to nest. The reserve also features typical Mediterranean scrub vegetation and aquatic habitats, with unique, eroded landscapes that include endemic species such as Aster sorrentinii and Lavatera agrigentina. Before reaching Caltanissetta, your path will cross the monumental building of the Averna Distillery, where the secret recipe for the world-famous amaro liqueur is still produced today. A stone’s throw away is the richly endowed Archaeological Museum and the Abbey of Santo Spirito, a former fortress transformed into a place of worship by the Normans in 1153, which remains a cherished site for the nisseni, as the people of Caltanissetta are referred to. The adjacent Monte San Giuliano offers one of the most marvellous views in Sicily from its terraces. At its very peak stands the Monument to the Redeemer, created in stone and bronze by the distinguished Art Nouveau architect Ernesto Basile as part of a series of 19 monumental statues placed in various scenic locations throughout Italy, in honour of the 1900 Jubilee. While looking out from the white stone balconies of Monte San Giuliano, which command a panoramic view of the entire city and valley and the adjacent private archaeological site, your gaze will be able to sweep right across the island, spanning from Mount Etna to the Madonie mountain range, from Mussomeli Castle to Sutera and further over to Mount Cammarata, and from the Castello di Pietraperzia to the plains of Mazzarino and Gela.
Meanwhile, the final highlight of our tour is the enchanting Villa Testasecca in Caltanissetta. Built in the second half of the 19th century by Count Ignazio Testasecca, a wealthy mining entrepreneur, it is set within a park that is rich in lush vegetation, in an area that has now become part of the heart of the city of Caltanissetta. This grand historical residence, which is open for visits by appointment, is an ideal venue for hosting private events, photo and film shoots, exhibitions, concerts and other prestigious artistic occasions. We highly recommend you make time to explore the distinctive centre of Caltanissetta, which offers a rich tapestry of churches, noble palazzos, narrow alleyways and of course the authentic ‘strata a foglia’ market on Via Consultore Benintende, so named after the foglie or leaves on which the goods on display were traditionally sold, and now the hub of the local ‘movida’ nightlife. While strolling through Caltanissetta, be sure to include time to take a peek at some of its many churches, such as the Cathedral of Santa Maria La Nova with its exquisite Borremans frescoes, the Church of Santa Croce alla Badia, the Church of Sant’Agata al Collegio with its wonderful polychrome marble and the Church of San Domenico. The Tripisciano Museum in the unique Palazzo Moncada is particularly noteworthy for its collection of plaster models by the internationally renowned sculptor Michele Tripisciano, whose work includes the statues of Giuseppe Gioachino Belli in Trastevere, and of Paolo and Ortensio at the Palace of Cassation in Rome, and who also has innumerable creations throughout the world from Buenos Aires to London and New York in places as varied as Notre Dame in Paris and the Cathedral in Milan. Also well worth visiting are the Diocesan Museum at the Bishop’s Seminary and the Mineralogical, Paleontological and Sulphur Museum at the Sebastiano Mottura Institute. Lastly, no visit here would be complete without going both to the Monumental Cemetery, one of the most significant in Europe (before entering, don’t forget to take in the picturesque vista of the Castello di Pietrarossa overlooking it and the complex of Santa Maria degli Angeli), and the Gibil Gabib archaeological site with its two necropolises.
Returning to the starting point of this itinerary, you will have the opportunity to discover additional sites and attractions along the way. There is, for example, the archaeological site of Vassallaggi in the territory of San Cataldo, while if you continue on to Mussomeli you will see its ancient castle overlooking a spectacular valley. From there, carry on to Sutera, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy, before continuing on to the aforementioned Canicattì, with grand palazzos like the Villa Firriato and the archaeological site of the Vito Soldano thermal complex. It would also be a pity not to take a detour to enjoy the splendid baroque architecture in Naro. In other words, we challenge you to return to Agrigento without being exhilarated by the unforgettable experience of exploring the remarkable hidden jewels of this extraordinary region!
