The first thing most people say after spending time in Cagliari is that they want to move there permanently, if not for the mild climate and the beaches that can be enjoyed for nine months of the year, then for the unexpectedly quaint old town and the friendly welcome of its inhabitants. There are so many elements to appreciate when visiting this city, and it leaves such an impression that it is difficult to leave and return to the mainland. It is this nostalgic charm and irresistible pull that has led many to settle in Cagliari or its picturesque surroundings, both by the coast and further inland. Some even chose to turn a short stay into a lifelong commitment, as was the case of the legendary and unforgettable football player Gigi Riva, who refused lucrative offers from much more prestigious teams to stay loyal to his adoptive home in Sardinia. If you are not ready for such a life-changing decision, do not fret, however! Regardless of long you are able to stay, we guarantee it will be a truly memorable experience. Our itinerary mostly unfolds within the historic centre, but it also encompasses the port, the famous Poetto beach, renowned wineries and fabulous beach clubs (weather permitting, of course), while taking in churches, museums and castles along the way. We begin our journey at a castle – or to be more specific, the Castle district.
Castello of Cagliari is one of the city’s four historic districts, the others being Marina, Stampace and Villanova. Casteddu de Susu, as it is similarly known in the Sardinian language – note that this does not translate as merely a dialect – means ‘Upper Castle’. It is notable for its strategic position atop a limestone hill about 100 metres above sea level. Many are unaware that it was the people of Pisa who founded and fortified the Castello to protect it from pirate attacks and long-standing rivals such as the Genoese, who left their mark elsewhere in Sardinia (for example, on the island of Carloforte). Throughout history, this neighbourhood has been home to the various palaces of the ruling elite and noble families, and it is still accessed via its ancient medieval gates. In the main square, appropriately named Piazza Palazzo, you will find Palazzo Reale (also known as Palazzo Regio), which hosts the Prefecture and the Council Hall of the Metropolitan City of Cagliari, as well as the Cathedral of Santa Maria, initially dedicated to Saint Cecilia. This square is the seat of the University of Cagliari and the Rectorate offices. Formerly a fortified location, the Castello of Cagliari is surrounded by various towers—the Elephant Tower, the Tower of San Pancrazio and the Tower of the Eagle. Probably the most popular spot for the younger generation is the Bastione di Saint Remy, which has been deemed their favourite place to gather and socialise.
The bastion’s monumental staircase, topped by its triumphal arch, is indeed an eye-catching location and makes it a prime spot for Instagram-worthy shots. From this vantage point, the view is truly breath-taking, and the presence of open-air bars make the Bastione a hugely attractive meeting place for both locals and visitors. While the name might sound like it was crafted by marketing experts, it has, in fact, been in use for centuries. While still in the Castello district, you will come across the palatial residences of many rulers and nobles: the aforementioned Palazzo Regio, Palazzo di Città (the seat of the city’s government from the 14th century until the early 20th century), the Archbishop’s Palace, Palazzo delle Seziate (most notably associated with the city’s military and judicial institutions), the University Palace, the Conservatory of the Daughters of Providence (home to a charitable institution for orphans in the 19th century), and Palazzo Boyl. Among the religious sites, aside from the Cathedral, there are six other churches in the district, including Santa Maria del Monte, which is now the headquarters of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. One of the best things about Cagliari for museum lovers is that the most important museums are all conveniently grouped together in the Citadel of Museums at the northern end of the Castello district. Here you can explore the Archaeological Museum, the National Art Gallery, the Clemente Susini Wax Anatomical Museum and the Cardu Siamese Art Museum. Close to the Cathedral is the Duomo Museum, where you can admire the Cathedral’s Treasure, while you can visit the Luigi Piloni Sardinian Collection in Palazzo dell’Università. The Citadel of Museums marks the boundary with the Villanova district which was, as its name suggests, a later urban development in Cagliari’s history. Villa Vivaldi is a private historical residence whose exact construction date is unknown, but by the late 18th century it was already being used by the Vivaldi family as their summer abode and hunting lodge. In the 1970s, the Villa was purchased in rather woeful conditions by Rosabianca Cao, who, along with her husband and children, oversaw major preservation work which now allows for the hosting of large-scale events, ceremonies and receptions. The Villa is particularly well-suited for such occasions, boasting a beautiful hanging garden, stable and orchards. The garden, one of the estate’s most remarkable features, is connected to the orchards by an impressive double staircase.
Not far from Villa Vivaldi, there is a must-see for food lovers. The San Benedetto Civic Market was built in 1957 following the closure of the general market in Largo Carlo Felice in what was still open countryside at the time. Italy’s first indoor market, it is one of the largest in Europe and is spread over two floors with a surface area covering over 8,000 square metres. It contains around 180 stalls selling baked goods, fresh fruit and vegetables, meat, traditional sweets and organic products. The lower floor is dedicated to seafood. Another absolute sight not to be missed is the Botanical Garden in the Stampace district, which is an oasis of tranquillity in the heart of the city. Our itinerary now brings us to the last of Cagliari’s four historic areas, the Marina district. To reach it from the Castello area, you will need to head down to the waterfront. There are several churches well worth visiting here: San Francesco da Paola, Sant’Eulalia, built by the Catalans in the 14th century on the site of the Pisan tower of Lapola (the old name for the Marina district), the small church of Santa Maria del Porto and the monumental Sant’Agostino Church, along with the churches of San Sepolcro, Santa Rosalia and Sant’Antonio Abate. Be sure to include a stop-off at the Sant’Eulalia Archaeological Site and Treasury Museum or ‘Mutseo’, where sacred garments and works by Sardinian artisans from the 16th to the 19th centuries are preserved.
If you are interested in gourmet cuisine, Cagliari boasts one of Sardinia’s six Michelin-starred restaurants in the form of Stefano Deidda’s ‘Al Corsaro’. In the Pula district, there is also ‘Fradis Minoris’, headed by chef Francesco Stara who, in addition to the iconic red star, is entitled to display a green star awarded for the kitchen’s excellence in sustainable practices. As well as fine dining, Cagliari’s culinary scene is buzzing with thriving restaurants like Josto, Is Feminas, Luigi Pomata, Sa Piola, VitaNova, Da Marino al St. Remy and Lo Scoglio in Spiaggiola Sant’Elia. For the best patisseries in town, try the long-established Chez Les Negres on Via Sonnino, a local favourite since 1964, or Pasticceria Piemontese on Via Lai. Other top recommendations are Ditrizio on Via Crispi and Pasticceria Pirani near the entrance to the San Benedetto Market. Meanwhile, for wine enthusiasts, one of the most important and prestigious wineries in all of Sardinia is located in Serdiana just 20 km from Cagliari. Argiolas is an excellent address for a picnic or aperitif in the midst of a verdant vineyard. In the event that you are visiting Cagliari during the warmer months, we’d like to add a couple of ideas so you can enjoy a few hours soaking up the sun on the beach. La Paillotte, positioned on the cliffs of Cala Fighera, is ideal for those who want to relax far from the noise and crowds, while Le Palmette along the long stretch of sand on Poetto beach is a great option for sunbathing, as is the Emerson beach club. Last but not least, the livelier Albachiara is to be found in the Quartu Sant’Elena area and offers a completely different experience: it is the place to be if you’re looking to party. If, on the other hand, you are an archaeology enthusiast, the Tuvixeddu Necropolis is but a short distance from the train station and Teatro Massimo. This is one of the largest Punic-Roman burial sites in Europe and it is possible to explore ancient rock-carved tombs at this site.
