Whenever the città estense (the Estensi cities, territories governed by the distinguished House of Este from the 11th to the 19th centuries) are referred to, Ferrara is the one that always immediately springs to mind. This city has borne the name of the ducal family ruling it since its inception, along with its castle, which is the most important monument in the heart of the most prominent town in the low Emilia plain. Modena also had close ties with the Este dynasty, which in reality maintained power in the home of the iconic Ghirlandina Tower for much longer than it did in Ferrara: two centuries more, to be precise, since the duchy of Ferrara came to an end in 1598, while in Modena it continued right up until the birth of the Kingdom of Italy. Bearing this in mind, it is understandable that there has been a deep connection between Modena and Ferrara throughout the course of history. The long-established Este domination has left a lasting imprint on both of these neighbouring provinces, which consequently have much in common, including a seamless beauty that emanates from the historical centres of the capital cities to the surrounding villages. Time flows peacefully under the porticoes in these areas, offering visitors the possibility of discovering charming squares, excellent trattoria restaurants offering exquisite meals, and museums and churches housing priceless treasures. Nestled among these gems are, of course, a number of historical residences which are open to the public, ready to welcome guests who appreciate this outstanding territory and have a desire to experience its origins firsthand. On our journey around the Emilia region, you will trace the route from Modena to Ferrara and then head towards Bologna, where you will be able to admire the artistic and architectural unity present, despite a strong historical divide – Bologna stayed an independent republic, and the Este family were therefore considered political enemies for many generations.
The only possible starting point for our itinerary in Modena has to be the square that earned the city its UNESCO World Heritage status in 1997. This is Piazza Duomo, where you will find the Cathedral, with its magnificent façade sculpted by the workshop of Wiligelmo and the unique Ghirlandina tower, which stands proudly and dominates the historic centre. While this complex alone is sufficient to make Modena well worth a visit, the city offers much more, in particular due to its association with the Ferrari brand and its global success in the world of motorsport. One of Modena’s top contemporary attractions is the Enzo Ferrari Museum, which honours the founder of the Ferrari racing team and its logo featuring a black horse rearing up, a symbol of power, speed and elegance. This is the first of two Ferrari museums, with the second being located in Maranello, where the world’s most famous sports car manufacturing site is situated. Alongside Enzo Ferrari, mention must be made of one of the most notable figures from Modena from the 20th century, Luciano Pavarotti. His house, which has been transformed into a museum, can be visited on Stradello Nava. In more recent times, the most famous person from Modena is undoubtedly chef Massimo Bottura, who has gained worldwide acclaim with his restaurant Osteria Francescana in Via Stella. He has become one of the main reasons why international gourmet travellers fly specially to Emilia in order to sample his uber-famous style of cuisine and stay at his luxurious ‘home away from home’ relais, Casa Maria Luigia. To conclude your stay in Modena, be sure not to miss the majestic Palazzo Ducale, which now houses the Military Academy, accessible only via a guided tour by prior appointment, as well as the Palazzo dei Musei and the city’s oldest covered market, the Mercato Albinelli.
It’s time to head north along the SS 12 road in the direction of the land where Lambrusco is produced, Sorbara, on the way to the city of Mirandola, which is currently in the midst of a revival following the devastation of the severe earthquake which took place in 2012. Considered the core of Europe’s biomedical industry, this is the hometown of Renaissance humanist Giovanni Pico, who has gone down in history under the nickname of ‘Pico della Mirandola’. A short distance away is our first destination, Villa La Personala, whose hamlet was originally built around a 12th-century tower and adjoining chapel and oratory, which is now owned by the Ferri Personali family. The Villa was unfortunately badly damaged by the earthquake, which resulted in the collapse of the tower, that was later rebuilt. Nine years later, the Villa was proud to reopen its doors to guests, offering a beautiful setting for private events and hospitality. Thanks to the reconstruction efforts, it now offers six suites for overnight accommodation, including two suites in the original tower.
Leaving historic Mirandola behind, our itinerary now takes in another city with a significant history: Finale Emilia. This small capital provides a wealth of culinary traditions, with famous eateries such as La Fefa and Entrà for you to unveil. It is also worth visiting to catch a glimpse of the ancient castle, which still bears the scars of the tremors that caused the collapse of the Torre dei Modenesi tower, the face of its clock broken in half, an all-too-visible symbol of the tragic event when the tower first split in two, then collapsed. On a more optimistic note, reconstruction of the tower is currently underway.
From Finale, continue on towards Bondeno, known for its Rocca Possente fortress, as well as its longstanding, typically Emilian restaurant, ‘Tassi’. You are now on the outskirts of Ferrara, where we suggest you park your car and do what the locals do: jump on a bicycle – what better way to explore the city of poet and author Ludovico Ariosto (who was in fact born in Reggio Emilia, but was later adopted by Ferrara), painter Giovanni Boldini and, more recently, filmmaker Michelangelo Antonioni. Key attractions to see are the Estense Castle, the Cathedral dedicated to San Giorgio, and Palazzo dei Diamanti, where the National Gallery is based and the site where all the largest exhibitions are held. Palazzo Schifanoia is likewise a ‘must-see’: it derives its name from its original purpose as a place where one could escape the monotony or tedium of governing duties (the word schifanoia suggests the avoiding of boredom or an escape from tedious tasks). Furthermore, it is the only remaining delizia estense within the city walls, denoting the former estates of the Este family designed for their leisure and pleasure away from their political duties.
Some twenty minutes away from Ferrara, in Ducentola, is the second historical residence of our journey.
The expansive Villa Contessa Massari, dating back to around 1620, spans an impressive 1,200 m² of interior space, including 500 m² of stables, and is set within a 26,000 m² park. It was restored by Professor Francesco Caputo Nassetti, who lives at the Villa with his family and rents the spaces out for private events and ceremonies. Just before leaving Ferrara, however, it is well worth your while indulging in the expertise of the Ferrara chocolatiers in their crafting of the ‘food of the gods’ by stopping at the Rizzati store in the city, and then making your way to Chocolat, Cristiano Pirani’s pastry shop. In terms of restaurants, our favourites include Makorè and Quel Fantastico Giovedì, while the combination of pizza and cocktails is hard to beat at the phenomenal Me pizzeria.
En route for Bologna, ensure you plan a stop in Minerbio, where you will come upon a historic residence from the 1300s which is now available for private events, ceremonies and conventions. This is Rocca Isolani, which features an extraordinary Renaissance courtyard that can accommodate up to 250 guests. The Isolani family also owns the famous Palazzo Isolani in Bologna’s centre and Villa Isolani in Ozzano dell’Emilia. As you continue towards Bologna, dominated on high by the Sanctuary of San Luca, you will drive past Porta Galliera, the ancient gateway to the walled city for those arriving from the Ferrarese plain. We will focus on three important historical residences in the city, combining these experiences with the discovery of some precious hidden gems that form part of Bologna’s artistic heritage. The aforementioned Palazzo Isolani, the home of the Cavazza Isolani family, is located in an exceptionally beautiful spot at the intersection of Piazza Santo Stefano and the so-called ‘Seven Churches’ complex, along the road known as Strada Maggiore that led from the twin towers to Romagna. A perfect venue for private events and ceremonies, Palazzo Isolani also provides a unique opportunity to experience Bologna in a historic setting, thanks to its charming B&B on the top floor.
Continuing down Via Castiglione, a prominent street in Bologna’s city centre, lies Palazzo Pepoli Campogrande – Campogrande Concept, with its emotive and inviting gallery of mirrors, the Sala degli Specchi. Owners Stefano Campogrande and his wife, Daniela Campogrande Scognamillo, organise contemporary art exhibitions, design showcases, fashion shows and culinary events.
Last but certainly not least, Bologna can also lay claim to possessing a palace once belonging to a pope. Palazzo Boncompagni is the historical residence in question. Today the property of the Pizzighini Benelli family, this is where Cardinal Ugo Boncompagni, who was elected Pope Gregory XIII on 13 May 1572, spent his formative years. In 2022, the Palazzo Boncompagni Foundation was founded to oversee its preservation and restoration. Visitors can arrange guided tours of the Palazzo via the association’s website, and it is also available for private events and exhibitions, as well as an exhibition space for successful shows, such as the one recently dedicated to the works of Transavanguardia artist Mimmo Paladino. Bologna itself proposes a host of wonderful things to see and do for those able to dedicate a couple of days to it that extend far beyond the best-known landmarks of Piazza Maggiore and the Basilica of San Petronio, the Asinelli Tower (whose 498 steps can be climbed on foot), the Archiginnasio Municipal Library and Anatomical Theatre, the famous Seven Churches and the many lively taverns in the Quadrilatero district. Dive deeper into its artistic and cultural history at sites like the Casa Morandi Museum, where you can view paintings by major 20th-century Italian artist Giorgio Morandi, or the Casa Carducci Museum, which houses the remarkable library of poet Giosuè Carducci, remembered in particular for his ‘Pianto antico’ or ‘Ancient Lament’. Don’t miss the moving ‘Compianto sul Cristo Morto’ (Lamentation over the Dead Christ) by Niccolò dell’Arca, together with countless other museums that would take at least a week to visit. Add in the multiple local gastronomic delights and the endless shopping opportunities – it goes without saying that Bologna is so much more than a place for mere sightseeing!
