To fully experience the historical residences open to the public in Venice in all their glory, you need to venture beyond the lagoon. Crossing to the ‘mainland’, as Venetians refer to anything strictly outside the bounds of the inner city, is essential in order to be able to fully appreciate the architectural marvels created by the nobility of the time for the holiday retreats to which they would retire to get away from the affairs and occupations of daily life the rest of the year. Given the limited transportation options of the time, the land identified as the vacation spot par excellence was the nearby Riviera del Brenta, a series of villages along the Brenta River, which was later transformed into a canal when the Venetians diverted its course to protect ‘la Serenissima’ from the increasing risk of silting.
Our itinerary will take us from the heart of Venice to the ancient centre of Padua, and the very good news is that you can choose to make this journey by car, bicycle or even riverboat, thanks to the services offered by the navigation company I Battelli del Brenta. This is a truly unique experience that also allows access to the villas of the Riviera directly from the canal, exactly as used to happen in the far distant past. But first let’s return to Venice and decide where to stay, before starting to explore the wonders of Saint Mark’s city. As good luck would have it, we can suggest not one but three ADSI historical residences right here in Venice.
Select your accommodation based on practical considerations and your personal preferences. For this itinerary, we are starting out at the only square which is called a ‘piazza’ (you will notice that all the others are given the name of ‘campo’). And where else indeed could we begin, other than at the world-famous Piazza San Marco? Here, you can visit the Basilica di San Marco, which houses the remains of the eponymous evangelist, surreptitiously smuggled in from Alexandria in Egypt and concealed among pork carcasses to avoid detection by Muslim soldiers. There are several museums to explore, such as Museo Correr, the Biblioteca Marciana library and the Archeological Museum, while you can soak up the atmosphere at the iconic Florian and Quadri cafés, as well as admiring the Clock Tower and the ‘Campanile’ bell tower that collapsed and had to be rebuilt. Proceed to the waterfront to see the two columns, one dedicated to San Marco and the other to San Todaro, which welcomed those arriving by sea into the city.
A tour of the Palazzo Ducale or Doge’s Palace is an absolute must, during which you will cross the uber-popular Bridge of Sighs, which once conducted prisoners to the Piombi prison. Giacomo Casanova was famously detained here – and indeed succeeded in making a daring and much-documented escape. From here, stroll along the quay to the Gardens, from where it is also possible to continue on to the Arsenal, Venice’s ‘war factory’. In addition to the Naval Museum, this area now showcases a host of contemporary art, thanks to the international artistic and architectural exhibitions organised annually by the Venice Biennale, a unique opportunity to experience historic spaces reimagined by today’s foremost artists and architects. As an alternative, head back to the Piazza and walk for ten minutes to the Church of Santa Maria Formosa and the Fondazione Querini Stampalia museum, which features a remarkable art collection and a library containing over 400,000 volumes. Literally one minute away is our first historical residence offering accommodation: Hotel Scandinavia, owned by the Tinacci family. Ideally placed to give you the impression of reliving the glories of 18th-century Venice, the name of this establishment is linked to the fact that it was once a trade hub with Scandinavian countries. Its 33 rooms are furnished with period pieces and luxurious Murano glass chandeliers, and its strategic location is ideal for those wishing to stay between Rialto and San Marco.
Continuing in the direction of the Santa Lucia Railway Station, you will cross the San Canciano bridge and discover Hotel Giorgione on Calle Larga dei Proverbi.
Upon leaving Hotel Giorgione, proceed along Strada Nuova, the busiest pedestrian-only street in Venice (cars are only allowed on the Lido and Pellestrina islands), which connects Piazzale Roma and the train station with Rialto. You will pass by the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, an ancient landing point for goods arriving from Germany – its name and history highlighting Venice’s status as the world’s first international port since the Middle Ages – and now a luxury shopping destination. After glimpsing the statue dedicated to Carlo Goldoni in nearby Campo San Bartolomio, trace your steps to the Rialto Bridge for an obligatory snapshot at one of Venice’s most easily recognisable landmark locations. Following the Grand Canal, stroll along Riva del Ferro and carry on as far as the Teatro Goldoni, the city’s key venue for theatrical performances. You can then walk through Campo San Luca and Campo Manin, which will lead you to yet another iconic Venetian picture-perfect spot: the spiral staircase known as the ‘Bovolo’ at Palazzo Contarini. The next stop on our walking tour is Campo Santo Stefano, a spot beloved by both Venetians and tourists alike, where you can enjoy an aperitif while admiring the statue of Niccolò Tommaseo. Then make your way in the direction of the wooden Accademia Bridge, the third of the bridges over the Grand Canal (the other two being the Railway and Rialto Bridges). Before crossing to the other side, however, take a slight detour to Campiello Pisani, where our second historical residence is located. Palazzetto Pisani directly overlooks the Grand Canal and has been transformed into a boutique resort. The ‘Il Pisanino Dining & Bar’ concept offers guests a unique dining experience with the possibility of dining on the balcony, overlooking the Basilica della Salute. After crossing the Accademia Bridge, you will be spoilt for choice in terms of the various essential must-see sights to explore, including the Gallerie dell’Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (which can be accessed by walking towards La Salute), and, if you head south, the Squero di San Trovaso, the place where gondolas were historically built and repaired. This route will take you to the Zattere promenade, a favourite haunt for Venetians on sunny days during the winter months, given that it is south facing. From here, you can catch a vaporetto to the island of Giudecca or head straight to Piazzale Roma, where our mainland journey begins if you are driving, as this is the arrival point for cars and buses. Alternatively, if you are travelling by boat, you will depart from the Bacino di San Marco.
There is a wealth of historic villas dotted along the picturesque banks of the Brenta River. The most impressive of them all is undoubtedly Villa Pisani in Stra, which is now a national museum and boasts a spectacular garden labyrinth. Other notable villas include Palladio’s ‘Malcontenta’, Villa Valmarana in Mira, (which now presents two original ‘barchesse’ or farm buildings, as the main villa was unfortunately demolished), Villa Widmann, which is also located in Mira, Villa Angeli in Dolo and Villa Pisani, also known as ‘La Barbariga’, near Stra. We recommend you include a visit of the centre of Dolo, which has successfully maintained its identity as a city of water. Here you will find Villa Tron Mioni, an 18th-century historical residence built on the ashes of the original 17th-century palazzo, the octagonal oratory of which was thankfully spared during the fire. Three apartments are available within the restored farm building and two double rooms can be rented in the main Villa. Guests have free access to the beautiful private park ad can also enjoy breakfast outside, close to the waters of the Brenta Canal.
At this stage, you will be almost upon Padua, but we would like to suggest a small diversion heading slightly north, in order to incorporate Villa Selvatico da Porto in Vigonza. Constructed from the late 1400s onwards, it is a typical example of a noble country residence which now houses six independent apartments set in a large garden with a swimming pool. In between afternoons dipping into the pool, the Villa is absolutely perfectly placed for exploring the centre of Padua and its many landmarks, including the incredible Basilica of Saint Anthony, a pilgrimage site for people from all over the world, and the Scrovegni Chapel frescoed by Giotto, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2021.
On your travels, be sure to check out our favourite restaurants, places to try traditional Venetian ‘bacari’ and top cultural shopping spots: Venetian craftsmanship is renowned worldwide for its outstanding quality and exquisite creations. If you are keen to discover the most historic restaurants, visit Harry’s Bar, Do Forni or Corte Sconta. For a more upscale dining experience, try Glam at Palazzo Venart or Ristorante Quadri, manned by the Alajmo brothers. While in Venice, you also have to taste some cicchetti, or small appetisers of fish and meat, at one of the many small taverns or ‘bacari’. We are particularly fond of the polpette meatballs at the traditional Osteria Ca’ d’Oro called ‘Alla Vedova’, as well as Cantina Do Spade. The go-to place for pastries is definitely Rosa Salva, which has multiple shops around the city; during the Carnival period, there are queues out the doors for their cream-filled ‘frittelle’. Take care to avoid falling foul of counterfeit practices if you decide to purchase any glass items from Murano; this directory established by the Consortium guarantees the authenticity of the ‘Murano Artistic Glass’ trademark. Last but not least, if you are looking for exquisite high-quality fabrics, don’t forget to pay a visit to the extraordinary Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua artisanal weaving workshop before bidding farewell to Venice.
