After visiting the areas in and around Perugia, let’s now turn our attention to the central and southern parts of Umbria, starting from its capital and continuing on to Terni via a landscape liberally sprinkled with castles, medieval villages, lakes and waterfalls, all offering exceptional experiences that are guaranteed to remain indelible in the memories of first-time visitors.
Our itinerary begins therefore in Perugia, to which you could decide to return, going full circle, after spending a couple of nights in other locales and historic homes.
The first stop is Gubbio, where you will be able to dive straight into the heart of medieval Umbria at the Gothic Palazzo dei Consoli. The Eugubine Tables are displayed in the civic museum, namely seven bronze plates inscribed in the original Umbrian language which pertain to ancient religious rituals. You can also explore the Palazzo Ducale and have an adventure at the quirky ‘Fontana dei Matti’ (literally meaning the ‘Fountain of the Madmen’). By running three laps around the fountain in the presence of a local resident and subsequently being ‘baptised’ by its water, you will earn the right to be granted the honorary title of ‘Madman of Gubbio’ or ‘Matto onorario di Gubbio’. You can learn about the skills of the ceramic master potters by entering into one of the many workshops dotted throughout the town. Afterwards, exit the city walls and check out the Castello di Magrano, a fortress built in the 13th century to defend Gubbio that has been renovated into a country relais, featuring twelve guest rooms and an apartment.
This location serves as an excellent base for day trips to both Assisi and the border between the Marche and Umbria regions between Fabriano and Fossato di Vico. The next destination on our agenda is Assisi, the homeland of Saint Francis. A tour of both the Upper and Lower Basilicas is indispensable; the saint’s body has been laid to rest in the latter, and it is here that the foundations of European painting truly began, with masterpieces by artists such as Cimabue, Pietro Cavallini, Giotto and Pietro Lorenzetti. We also recommend you take a 2-kilometre detour to see the Villa di Sant’Angelo in Panzo. Originally established as a Benedictine convent in the 10th century, it was later converted into a patrician house and then a rural residence, becoming the inaugural convent of Santa Chiara, where, according to ancient records, she is said to have performed her first miracle. Today, the Villa operates as an agricultural estate, producing organic extra virgin olive oil. Continuing along State Road 75, you will then arrive at Capitan Loreto, where there’s a unique structure called La Chiesa Tonda (‘the Round Church’), a former convent repurposed for private events and ceremonies. Our journey then takes you to Spello, best known for its annual Infiorate floral festival, dedicated to creating carpets of flower petals along the streets. Additionally, Spello is home to the wonderful Baglioni Chapel in the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, which is adorned with the glorious cycle of frescoes painted by Pinturicchio. Last but not least, do not miss the amazing Villa of Mosaics, a recent archaeological discovery displaying around twenty rooms from the Roman era, distinguished by their restored mosaic floors.
A short distance away is Foligno, historically one of the most important cities in Umbria and the seat of the Trinci lordship in the 14th century. From here, you can explore Foligno’s main attractions: the Cathedral dedicated to St. Felician, the city’s patron saint, which houses the Diocesan Capitol Museum and its Crypt, plus the 13th-century Town Hall, Palazzo Trinci (which hosts the art gallery) and Palazzo Orfini. The latter is the historic home of Emiliano Orfini, a distinguished family of printers responsible for publishing the first edition of the Divine Comedy. Those who appreciate fine dining should consider booking a reservation at Une, a restaurant in Capodacqua that has recently been awarded a Michelin star.
Heading further south towards Spoleto along the Flaminia road, you will pass the village of Trevi, with its remarkable Renaissance palazzos belonging to the Valenti family, the beautifully frescoed 16th-century Villa Fabbri dei Boemi and the nearby monumental Church of the Madonna delle Lacrime. This ‘weeping Madonna’ church was commissioned for the Valenti family and features frescoes by Spagna and Pietro Perugino. A little further along the same road is a ‘must-see’ landmark. Recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site and sought out by travellers both past and present from all over the world (including Goethe and Byron, to name but a few), is the Tempietto sul Clitunno, positioned near the source of the Clitunno River and one of the seven treasures of Italy listed in the UNESCO Serial Site “Longobards in Italy. Places of Power (568-774 A.D.)”.
Between Foligno and Spoleto, it is well worth will making a brief stop in Bevagna to admire Piazza Silvestri, which Bernard Berenson praised as being one of most beautiful squares in Italy. Wine enthusiasts should then head straight to Montefalco and the vineyards of Sagrantino, where a host of superb wineries await (among them is the notable Scacciadiavoli winery, previously belonging to the Boncompagnis and now owned by the Pambuffetti family, together with the Antonelli family winery in the adjacent village of San Marco). There is a fully operational wine museum within the San Francesco Museum Complex. However, even more celebrated than its wonderful wines and internationally recognised fabrics and textiles, Montefalco is above all revered for its many saints – Chiara Agostiniana (Saint Clare of Montefalco), Saint Fortunatus, Saint Severus, Blessed Chiarella and Blessed Peregrine – and its magnificently frescoed churches. In prime position is the Church of San Francesco, practically considered as a temple in terms of regional paintings. The legendary apse depicts the Stories of Francesco painted by Benozzo Gozzoli alongside works by Perugino, Tiberio di Assisi and a local artist Francesco Melanzio, whose delicate work is inspired by the typically Umbrian style frescoes of Bernardino di Betto, better known as Pinturicchio. Among the resplendent 16th-century buildings in the vicinity are Palazzo de Cuppis located in the main square and Palazzo Tempestivi-de Petra, which was designated for centuries to host visiting bishops from Spoleto during their diocesan trips to Montefalco. Its halls are decked with simply stunning frescoes.
Regretfully leaving Montefalco, it is time to continue along the Flaminia road in the direction of Spoleto.
Before reaching this strategic city, which was the seat of the Ancient Lombard Duchy, take a left turn in the direction of Valnerina towards Borgo Cerreto and Visso, and drive to Postignano. Once an abandoned borgo, this village and the Castello di Postignano have been fully restored, offering ‘dispersed hospitality’, and making it an ideal point for exploring Norcia and the surrounding Umbrian towns bordering the Marche region and at the foot of the Sibillini Mountains.
Spoleto – or Spoletium, as it was entitled in ancient times – is a city of art and culture, whose history is so well documented that it seems unnecessary to repeat it here, although we should mention the fact that it was the headquarters of the Lombard Duchy for centuries. The Fondazione CISAM Centre for Studies of the Early Middle Ages in Palazzo Arroni (which overlooks one of the most beautiful squares in the world, situated on the sloping Via dell’Arringo leading to the Cathedral square), annually gathers together top medieval scholars during its Study Weeks to discuss significant historical topics. Spoleto continues to propose important contemporary art exhibitions at Palazzo Collicola, but has gained even greater recognition over the past decade for the Festival dei Due Mondi, founded by the ‘last Duke of Spoleto’, Maestro Gian Carlo Menotti. Over the years, this festival has welcomed a diverse array of writers, musicians, actors, directors, dancers, choreographers and artists from across the globe. The city’s old centre is truly enchanting, with its impressive Cathedral, the Roman Theatre, the fortress built by Cardinal Egidio Albornoz and the Ponte delle Torri, one of the defining symbols of Spoleto. This extraordinary arched aqueduct measures 250 metres in length and stands 80 metres high: it is an exceptional architectural achievement.
Terni is half an hour away via the Terre Arnolfe and the Passo della Somma. The city’s recent history is closely related to its industrial landscape and is visibly marked by the presence of the Arvedi Ast-Acciai Speciali Terni steel company. In strong contrast, Terni is also known as the city of Saint Valentine, the patron saint of lovers! You can embark upon a great many interesting excursions from here, and why not start off by walking along the trails to the highest waterfall in Europe, the famous Cascate delle Marmore or Marmore Falls. Immortalised by dozens of artists, including Jacob Philipp Hackert, it has a total three-tier drop of 165 metres at the confluence of the Nera and Velino rivers. Currently, the water flow is regulated through sluices, and at set times, the volume of water is increased to create a unique spectacle for visitors. A portion of the water is utilised for hydroelectric energy production.
After Terni, proceed towards San Gemini, which is included in the circuit of the most beautiful villages in Italy and is synonymous with its therapeutic waters, linked to the Sangemini and Fabia mineral water brands. While here, you should include not only the pre-Roman section and the public ‘Parco della Fonte’ park, but also the Archaeological Site of Carsulae, which contains a Roman theatre where electric performances are still held during the summer season. Close by on the road to Todi is Acquasparta, a vital cultural hub where the national Accademia dei Lincei (named in honour of the sharp-eyed lynx) was introduced in 1603. Meetings take place in the town’s primary building, Palazzo Cesi, the residence of Duke Federico Cesi, who welcomed some of the greatest minds of the era to his esteemed venue, including Galileo Galilei. Nearby, nestled among the peaks of the Martani mountains, lies the ghost village of Scoppio, left desolate after an earthquake in the 1950s. Remnants of the original castle are visible even today, isolated on a rocky spur. At the entrance to Todi is another historical residence, Villa Il Broglino. Constructed in the 16th century and expanded in the following century, it now offers accommodation with rooms adorned by both early and contemporary artists. It is possible to stay here overnight or simply to tour the Villa and the park with its centuries-old trees. In the fortified town of Todi, ensure you have time to see one of Umbria’s Renaissance masterpieces, the Church of Santa Maria della Consolazione, believed to have been initially designed by Bramante and completed over a century later with various other architectural contributions. There is the iconic Piazza del Popolo, too, with its 13th-century Palazzo del Popolo (also called Palazzo Vecchio) and the Gothic Palazzo del Capitano.
Wine aficionados can indulge their passion at a truly unique winery not far away. The Cantina Todini is owned and managed by the family of the same name, who has established an estate that includes a relais, a spa and an educational farm that rears exotic animals. Next up is a unique jewel in the crown of Umbrian culture: with its 99 seats, the Teatro della Concordia in Monte Castello di Vibio is the smallest active historical theatre in Italy. An unmissable detour from Todi, taking in the picturesque Corbara Lake, leads to Orvieto. Its stunning Duomo was built to commemorate the Eucharistic Miracle in nearby Bolsena, and the cathedral is regarded as one of the most imposing and magnificent churches in central Italy. While inside, be prepared to be overwhelmed by the dramatic frescoes by Luca Signorelli in the San Brizio chapel, as well as looking at other significant works by Cesare Nebbia and Ippolito Scalza. Not far from Orvieto—and indeed the last stop on our itinerary—is the Castello di Montegiove in Montegabbione. It is one of the oldest and most spectacular castles in Umbria and was commissioned in 1280 by the Counts of Marsciano. Since 1780, it has belonged to the Misciattellis (now the Misciattelli Mocenigo Soranzo family), who unified the ancient fiefdom with the castle, adapting it for agricultural purposes. Today, it includes a winery, a vineyard and an agriturismo where you have the option to either stay overnight or enjoy a fine meal, with dishes that propose locally raised Chianina beef, complemented by Rosso Orvietano DOC wine produced on the estate. Before wrapping up your trip, we highly recommend you contact the fascinating architectural complex of La Scarzuola, located just a short distance from Monte Giove, to arrange a visit. Originally a Franciscan monastery, it was transformed into an architectural utopian vision by Italian architect Tommaso Buzzi and later completed by his successor, Marco Solari, who skilfully engages his guests with fascinating stories that explore the depths of the soul as he guides them around the theatrical site.
The following day sees a return to Perugia, passing through Montegabbione and Tavernelle, where you can take a break and appreciate the beautiful Sanctuary of Mongiovino. There’s also time for a stroll around Lake Pietrafitta, near which is the prestigious Borgo dei Conti luxury resort, marking the end of this wonderful journey through the green heart of Italy.
