This journey takes us from the Lake Garda area in Brescia to the Po River, crossing the provinces of Mantua and Cremona. We then venture into the countryside around Crema and Lodi, concluding our trip in the Oltrepò Pavese region, just south of the Po. The route offers a chance to experience the vast Lombard landscape, known for its waterways and traditional farmhouses. This infinitely large valley evokes memories of writer, director and TV presenter Mario Soldati’s exploration for authentic foods, which marked the beginning of food journalism on television. While these culinary traditions have evolved due to industrial influences, they remain equally dynamic today, thanks to a younger generation dedicated to reviving small businesses, and restaurateurs who are focusing on high-quality local ingredients in a territory with a very rich heritage in terms of its agricultural and meat-processing techniques, not to mention its dairy production, showcased by its flagship product, Grana Padano PDO. We will also explore charming città d’arte cultural cities, romantic hamlets nestled in the plains and historical residences that welcome the public and offer hospitality and accommodation. We will commence our itinerary in Desenzano del Garda, easily accessible by train, where you can enjoy a picturesque promenade along the waterfront. Designed in the Venetian style, this is the perfect location from which to plan excursions to nearby attractions, including a visit to Sirmione, which features the Grotte di Catullo archaeological complex and Scaliger Castle. There are a couple of excellent wineries here which specialise in the production of Lugana, a white wine made from Turbiana grapes that pairs wonderfully with local fish dishes you can sample, for example, at Ristorante Alla Torre di San Martino della Battaglia. The site is historically significant, as it was the place where the battles were fought that enabled the Piedmontese to conquer Lombardy in 1859. Our next stop is Castiglione delle Stiviere in Upper Mantova which, along with neighbouring Castel Goffredo, is renowned for its production of socks and underwear. Close by is Castello di Solimago, an ideal spot for a few days of relaxation amidst the Solferino’s morenic hills, which were formed by accumulated glacial debris left behind by ancient glaciers. Six tastefully appointed apartments, renovated according to the principles of bio-architecture, have been renovated in the annexed premises of the patrician residence of 18th-century Palazzo Fattori.
From here, you will begin your voyage through the Mantuan countryside, leading to the provincial capital of Mantova and passing through towns that include Gazoldo degli Ippoliti, the Marcegaglia Group, the original headquarters of the n° 1 producer of carbon and stainless steel welded tubes. Continuing towards the Mincio River in Curtatone, you should plan a stop en route at the famous Beata Vergine delle Grazie Sanctuary, which was commissioned by Francesco I Gonzaga in the early 15th century as a pledge of devotion to the Madonna during one of the many plagues that afflicted the city. This is also the location of a well-established trattoria called the Locanda delle Grazie, celebrated for its risotto con il luccio (pike risotto) and other local delicacies. Originating from the Mincio River, Lake Superiore starts to form in Curtatone. Together with Lake Inferiore, it contributes to the distinctive landscape of Mantua, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was a prominent European powerhouse under the Gonzaga family, who left their mark on this small town of fewer than 50,000 residents by gifting it with treasures such as the Palazzo Ducale, Palazzo Te, the Castle of San Giorgio and the magnificent Piazza delle Erbe, as well as a number of churches and one of the most beautiful theatres in Italy, the exquisite Bibiena Scientific Theatre. This is where the poet Virgil was born and where Venetian painter Andrea Mantegna painted many of his masterpieces. In terms of accommodation, we can highly recommend Ca’ degli Uberti Palace Hotel in the heart of the city, while for dining, why not book a table at Il Cigno – Trattoria dei Martini, or Ai Due Cavallini. Anyone with a sweet tooth should head straight to Caffè Borsa to discover Antoniazzi’s haute patisserie specialities.
Reluctantly leaving Mantova behind, travel along provincial road 420 in the direction of the Po River and Sabbioneta, a UNESCO World Heritage site and undoubtedly one of the most unique and alluring sites in the country (designated one of the most beautiful Borghi of Italy). The town is celebrated to this day as an extraordinary example of Renaissance urban planning, created from scratch in the 16th century by Vespasiano Gonzaga, whose vision was to build a town that embodied the principles of an ideal layout. You can visit not only the Palazzo Ducale and the Palazzo della Ragione, but also Villa Cantoni Marca, which was originally the summer home of a family from Lazio. Now it serves as a delightful historical residence and restaurant, offering à la carte dining at L’Osteria dei Capuccini.
The following destination, Casalmaggiore, brings you into the province of Cremona and finally to the banks of the Po River, which from here on will be a steady companion throughout your journey. Before reaching Cremona itself, take a detour to Dosimo, the historical home of Villa Calciati Crotti. Constructed in the 17th and 18th centuries, the Villa is available for group tours by prior reservation. It features finely frescoed rooms, a courtyard and an expansive park, making it a great location for large private events. Cremona merits a full day, at least, to take in all the sights, notably the iconic Torrazzo bell tower in the historic centre, as well as the Cathedral, the Piazza del Comune and the Violin Museum, which has found its ideal home here, thanks in no small part to the legacy left by Antonio Stradivari. Be sure to pay a visit to the oldest store in the city: Sperlari is proud to have been producing and selling the traditional torrone (nougat) and mostarda (a condiment made from candied fruit and a mustard-flavoured syrup) since 1836. Upon departure from Cremona, you will pass through the industrial district, cross the Adda River, and drive past a series of farmhouses before reaching the small village of Cornovecchio. This is also the location of Villa Gattoni Cattaneo, which was built in 1824 by a merchant who made his fortune in the meat trade, supplying Napoleon’s army at the end of the 18th century. Today, the Villa offers hospitality in the form of a charming relais, with three independent apartments and a swimming pool under the portico of the old barn. Moving northerly, your next stop is the town on Pizzighettone, a fine example of military architecture, its Renaissance-era walls still beautifully preserved. This is where the 18th-century historic residence Palazzo Silva is located. Hunting dog enthusiasts will be pleased to note that this was the foremost breeding ground for Italian bracco dogs in the late 19th century, the kennels commissioned by Cavalier Francesco Silva. Half an hour’s drive away is Crema, a city that gained instant and worldwide fame thanks to Luca Guadagnino’s Oscar-winning film ‘Call Me by Your Name’, mostly filmed on location in this idyllic setting, which has the Serio River flowing through it. Palazzo Zurla De Poli is very well worth taking time to discover. Constructed in 1520 at the behest of Leonardo Zurla, it has been painstakingly restored to its former glory and is now open to the public for a variety of corporate and cultural events, including classical music concerts.
Very close by, in the antique Roman village of Palazzo Pignano, is another historic residence. Villa Marazzi contains spacious frescoed interiors and a park with centuries-old trees and an outdoor swimming pool. It is a perfect venue for celebrations and ceremonies, and those getting married have the option of choosing a religious service at the nearby Church of San Martino. Milan is not quite on the doorstep yet, as we propose you return towards the Po River and spend a half day calling in at Lodi on your way. The many attractions of this provincial capital, which is traversed by the Adda River, include Piazza della Vittoria, the Temple of the Incoronata, the Cathedral and the Church of San Francesco. Plan to stop off subsequently at Cascina Sesmones, whose name is a giveaway as to its origins (it signifies the Farmstead of the Ses Mones or Six Monks). The estate has been transformed from a convent into a hotel, with meeting facilities and private event spaces. Further down the road is San Colombano al Lambro, a renowned wine-producing town on one of the few hills in this part of Lombardy, where we propose you visit the Castello di Chignolo Po. Often referred to as the ‘Versailles of Lombardy’, this elegant 18th-century residence boasts a striking Baroque courtyard and grand frescoed halls from the school of Tiepolo, originally commissioned by the owner of the period, Cardinal Agostino Cusani Visconti. The Castle is open for visits on weekends and bank holidays, and does not require advance booking. Pavia is the very final leg of our tour. Take time to admire the city centre, the Covered Bridge over the Ticino River and the adjacent ‘Certosa di Pavia’ Charterhouse complex, then cross the Po River and enter the wine-producing region of Oltrepò Pavese further south. Amidst wineries known for their sparkling wines made using the classic method, you will come upon Tenuta Pegazzera in the locality of Casteggio. This historical residence was built in the early 18th century by the Almo Collegio Borromeo of Pavia, one of Italy’s oldest and most prestigious university colleges. It was originally intended as a summer residence and remained under the college’s ownership until 1967. With its linear and elegant design, it stands as one of the finest examples of a ‘Lombard villa’ and includes a park with ancient trees and a chapel dedicated to Saint Charles Borromeo, the founder and an esteemed member of the Collegio Borromeo in Pavia. Nowadays, the Tenuta is a popular venue, hosting a variety of private events and ceremonies.
