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The Ionian region of Calabria from Rocca Imperiale to Crotone and Locri, and the Tyrrhenian region all the way to Reggio di Calabria

The Ionian coast of Calabria presents the greatest challenges for drivers, primarily due to the absence of any motorways. This results in longer travel times, although this scenario also does offer a certain level of selectivity, as the old adage “fewer roads, fewer tourists” certainly holds true. The region provides abundant opportunities for creating a memorable itinerary featuring historical residences, the most beautiful villages in this part of the world and a host of ancient remnants from the Magna Graecia era. We will follow a southbound route, starting at Rocca Imperiale, the first village on the map as we make our way down from Basilicata.
The castle at its summit was constructed by order of Frederick II of Swabia in 1225, with the picturesque village and its tiered houses established just beneath it. Rocca Imperiale is justifiably recognised as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. The fortress is open to the public and the village, famous for its PGI lemons, is well worth a visit. The monastery hosts the Museum of Waxes, the municipal library and the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Continue along Provincial Road 106 in the direction of Montegiordano Marina, where you will find a very distinctive artisan workshop: Marco Corrado uses locally sourced wood to craft classical guitars, violins, cellos and other musical instruments at the Liuteria Jonica Corrado. From here, head to the historic centre of the agricultural estate Tenuta del Castello, positioned close to the feudal castle and built in the 17th century on the ruins of the Monastery of Sant’Anania, which was destroyed by the Saracens around 1150. Grapes are cultivated in twelve hectares of vineyards and transformed into wine thanks to the expertise of entrepreneur and enologist Riccardo Cotarella. The winery welcomes wine enthusiasts and offers tours that conclude with a tasting of the wine on the estate. From here, take the scenic SP 149 road to Oriolo to discover the medieval Pignone del Carretto castle, one of the most significant structures in the network of watchtowers and fortifications along the Ionian Sea and in the Calabrian hinterland. Further along the SS 481, our next destination never fails to impress everyone following the coastal road, due to its highly prominent position close to the sea. The Castello Federiciano di Roseto Capo Spulico is a marvellous venue for romantic private events, but it also has a restaurant with views onto the water – where better to sit down for a gourmet meal? The successive stop en route for Villapiana is Amendolara, notable for its so-called ‘Torre spaccata’ or split tower, which overlooks the sea. The Piana di Sibari represents a region with a fascinating history that is very much worth exploring. This large alluvial plain was the site of a significant battle fought 2,500 years ago that led to the destruction of the hedonistic Greek colony of Sybaris by the city-state of Crotone, marking a turning point in the history of Magna Graecia. The conflict originated from the expulsion of a group of Sybarite aristocrats who sought refuge in Crotone, Sybaris’s arch-enemy. Telys, a despotic tyrant of Sybaris, demanded the return of the exiles, but the Crotonians denied his request. This refusal sparked a confrontation, culminating in Crotone’s victory (led by Milon, seven-time Olympic wrestling champion) at the Battle of Nika, followed by the sacking and destruction of Sybaris. At that time, the colony numbered some 300,000 inhabitants, who embraced a lavish way of living that was in stark contrast with the principles of military discipline. The term ‘sybaritic lifestyle’ has been handed down over the centuries and still denotes a person devoted to sensual luxury and self-indulgent pleasure. The Archaeological Park of Sybaris houses the Museum of Sybaris, the Museum of Amendolara and the archaeological sites of Parco del Cavallo and Casa Bianca. From an environmental perspective, this zone showcases a unique ecosystem in the heart of the Mediterranean. The Laghi di Sibari lakes have been created from the reclamation of a marsh and boast an international nautical centre. The Sybaris plain is of great importance for Calabrian agriculture, particularly for the cultivation of citrus groves (notably clementines), as well as a product that is not typically associated with Calabria, for rice is also produced here. It is notably tastier than other varieties because it is grown in a brackish area located near the sea. From Sybaris, make your way inland to Saracena, where you will discover the Maradei Agricultural Company, renowned for its exceptional natural wines, including the well-known Moscato Passito di Saracena, and olive oil.

Then double back to the Ionian coast and Rossano, home to three historical residences. The first one that you will encounter is Tenuta Ciminata Greco, which offers a potential place to stay in a town celebrated for its liquorice (more about this shortly). The estate has 21 lodging options, including bedrooms, suites and apartments, with an old stone farmhouse that has a traditional olive press, a library containing over five thousand books and a private chapel. The second location is also a business cum museum, the company in question being famous the world over for the quality of its liquorice. Palazzo Amarelli, Italy’s second most visited ‘enterprise museum’, displays tools used in the processing, extraction and marketing of the root from which liquorice is derived. The Amarelli family has been producing liquorice under their brand name since 1731, significantly impacting the region’s history, as reflected in the name of the locality where the palazzo and factory stand, Contrada Amarelli. Museum visits are free of charge, but require prior reservation, and you can purchase Amarelli products in the on-site shop. The third historical residence is Palazzo Cherubini; the property dates back to the 19th century and is situated in the ancient heart of Rossano. The nearby Diocesan Museum, recognised as a UNESCO world heritage site, contains the Codex Purpureus Rossanensis, a 6th-century Byzantine illuminated Gospel manuscript, a replica of which is preserved at Palazzo Cherubini. The latter today operates as a luxury Bed and Breakfast, featuring two heated swimming pools, one outdoors and one indoors, with saltwater sourced from the palazzo’s original cistern. There is also a spa area equipped with a gym and sauna. Among the gastronomic attractions in Corigliano Rossano is a pizzeria named Campana Pizza in Teglia, which has been ranked third nationally on the prestigious ‘50TopPizza’ list, under the ‘Take-away Pizza’ category.
Lunch now under your belt, it is time to follow the coastline down to Cariati Marina and then on to Cariati Alta, the old upper district. Enter via the Porta Pia gate and swing by the Co-cathedral of San Michele Arcangelo before exploring the many towers, and then treat yourself to an award-winning gelato from Fortino. Next up is Crucoli, known to the locals as ‘the town of delicious Sardella’, or even ‘Calabrian caviar’. This delicacy, whose roots can be traced right back to ancient Rome, is made from preserving young sardines in salt (nowadays, icefish are used rather than the once traditional bianchetto whitebait), combined with wild fennel and chilli peppers. After leaving Crucoli, you will enter another outstanding Calabrian territory. Cirò is the land of exceptional wines. There are many wineries to call in on, including the celebrated Librandi wine producer, which has elevated the region’s profile both nationally and internationally. In addition to wine cellars, the historic centre at Cirò Superiore offers a number of interesting sites, such as medieval Carafa Castle with its majestic towers and fortifications, and the Church of Santa Maria de Plateis. For traditional dining options, try the L’Aquila d’Oro trattoria, while fine dining enthusiasts should reserve a table at Dattilo in Strongoli, a restaurant acclaimed for its culinary offerings with chef Caterina Ceraudo at the helm. In terms of accommodation, we recommend Borgo Saverona, where guests can stay overnight surrounded by 20 hectares of vineyards and age-old olive groves.

Our itinerary continues with a visit to Torre Melissa. The 16th-century Aragonese tower here houses a museum dedicated to rural civilisation and the local action group (Gal), and there is a delightful restaurant just beside the tower. Proceed on to Crotone, where you will enter the city after navigating an unattractive abandoned industrial area on the outskirts. In contrast, the city reveals an unexpectedly picturesque historic centre. Highlights include the imposing Castle of Charles V and a square honouring Crotone’s most illustrious native, Pythagoras the philosopher, plus a romantic alley of lovers (perfect for Instagram fanatics), the national archaeological museum and the municipal park. About ten kilometres from Crotone is the Capo Colonna promontory, home to its National Archaeological Park. This ancient site was dedicated to the worship of the goddess Hera Lacinia and contains the remains of the Heraion sanctuary. This is a significant location for several reasons, including its connection to Hannibal, who set out from here to return to Carthage. While contemplating the deep historical significance of Calabria, you are invited to appreciate the column of the Temple of Hera Lacinia which has survived so many centuries and still stands tall before the stunning cobalt blue of the Ionian Sea. It is a truly picture-perfect spot, in every sense of the word.  Resuming our coastal drive and continuing along the SP50, you will reach the enchanting Torre di Scifo. A stop at the hamlet of Le Castella is essential. This popular tourist destination on the Costa dei Saraceni features an impressive Aragonese castle perched on a small island, connected to the mainland by a thin strip of sand. Follow the coast all the way down to Locri, passing through the town of Riace, where the bronze warriors now exhibited at the Archaeological Museum of Reggio Calabria were discovered in the sea. Once in Locri, the cradle of Calabria’s Grecian culture, look out for the Archaeological Park and the National Museum at Palazzo Nieddu del Rio. If you are planning to make it an overnight stay, why not choose Agriturismo Borgo Carbone, set on a plateau and surrounded by over thirty hectares of citrus and olive groves, with expansive views over the Costa dei Gelsomini (the Jasmine Coast, the clue being in the name!), Locri and Gerace.

Less than an hour’s drive away is indeed the “Enchanted Village” of Gerace, an amazing medieval village celebrated for its well-preserved architecture, previously described as the town of 100 churches and 100 bells. After enduring numerous earthquakes over the years, only about twenty of these churches now remain, including the monumental Cathedral, which needs to be seen to be believed.
Enjoy a well-deserved break at one of the local restaurants in Gerace and sample traditional dishes such as alatucia (pork belly) cooked with eggs, curcudia (a type of polenta from Aspromonte) and cicerata, a dessert made from boiled chickpeas, honey and cinnamon.
We are now nearing the end of our journey through Calabria. Surrounded by the lush greenery of the Calabrian mountains along the SP1 road, cross the Dolomiti di Canolo to reach our last stop, the Tenuta Acton di Leporano in Cannavà. This unique agricultural estate spans 300 hectares of olive groves, renowned for its olive oil production, and provides rooms in historic homes that once accommodated the local farming community, now beautifully restored for the delight of its guests.
Approaching the Tyrrhenian coast once more, use Cannavà as a base for excursions to Reggio Calabria, where you can explore the Archaeological Museum and admire panoramas over Sicily and Mount Etna from the Lungomare, which Gabriele d’Annunzio famously characterised as “the most beautiful kilometre in Italy”. A visit to Scilla is also on the agenda, allowing you to meander through the ancient village at the base of Castello Ruffo and – weather permitting – take a dip in the waters near Cariddi. Be sure not to miss the suspended terrace overlooking the sea at Ristorante Glauco.