UNESCO World Heritage’s recognition of the Dolomites mountain range in 2009, followed ten years later in 2019 by the inclusion of the Prosecco Hills of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, has given an additional boost to this wine-producing area situated in the heart of the Veneto region. Lying approximately halfway between the Venetian lagoon and the dramatic peaks of the Dolomites, this whole territory is set to become the focus of global attention, with the Winter Olympic and Paralympic Games taking place there in 2026. While being renowned for the many historical residences around which a high level of viticulture has developed, leading to the creation of a number of prominent brands specialising in sparkling wine, the allure of Treviso and Belluno also extends well beyond the bubbles of Prosecco which are today so popular all around the world. First and foremost, the two main cities are teeming with art and culture, life unfolding peacefully in the lovely piazzas and historic venues, with restaurants offering internationally appreciated specialities, of which tiramisù, originating from Treviso, is undoubtedly the best known. In addition, the province of Treviso, or ‘Marca Trevigiana’, reveals an array of enchanting villages, the jewel in the crown being the town of Asolo or ‘City of the Hundred Horizons’ in terms of its worldwide acclaim. With many residences to explore on our itinerary, we set off on our journey from Venice, heading towards the province of Treviso. The first stop is Mogliano Veneto, the home of Villa Troubetskoy. Located on the Terraglio road, which is famous for its many Venetian villas, the Villa boasts unique historical connections with the Russian Empire, as it was formerly owned by the descendants of Tsar Nicholas I. It was also the place where war hero Francesco Baracca spent his last night before his plane was shot down. The Villa is open to the public and can be rented for holiday stays. It is also available for photographic and film shoots, small private events, conferences and workshops.
From Mogliano, we head to the eastern part of the Marca region. After passing Casale sul Sile, our route takes us to Roncade and its castle, Castello di Roncade, which in fact resembles a pre-Palladian villa. Well known for their wine production, the family manages over a hundred hectares of vineyards. The Castle’s cellars feature the original wine-ageing facility, and visitors can sample its high-quality wines during individual tours. Group tours can also be organised by appointment. Castello di Roncade provides the possibility of staying in one of the suites of the Villa and in apartments located in the towers. We then continue on to Monastier to visit the Abbazia di Santa Maria del Pero Porcellato-Zorzi. The Abbey dates back to the 10th century and is the oldest part of the former Benedictine monastery that gives its name to this Veneto town. The monks’ cloister of enclosure, the frescoed refectory and the 15th-century library are all well worth exploring. Since 1997, the property has opened the house to the public for guided tours, private events, art and local history exhibits, theatrical performances, and chamber and jazz music concerts. Continuing on to the third destination, our journey takes us through the village of Spercenigo, where there is a long-standing Treviso trattoria called Da Procida. If it is a convenient time for a meal, we highly recommend you stop here to sample the restaurant’s traditional fare, in particular the ‘fongadina in tocio’ if it is available – this delicious dish of mushrooms cooked in a savoury stew or braised style rarely appears on menus today. If it’s not lunchtime, head on to Carbonera, just a stone’s throw from Treviso, where you will find Villa Tiepolo Passi. Currently home to the Passi de Preposulo Counts, the Villa offers charming country-chic accommodation in its Foresteria guesthouse and is perfectly positioned as a base to stay overnight if you plan to explore Treviso the following day. The property hosted King Vittorio Emanuele II and Generals Diaz and Cadorna during the period of the world war and now serves as an agricultural farm, as well as a venue for cultural tourism and exclusive events, which take place both indoors and in the beautiful Italian-style garden.
On day two, we suggest you discover Treviso’s most important landmarks: Piazza dei Signori, Palazzo del Podestà with its Civic Tower, the adjacent Palazzo dei Trecento, the Loggia dei Cavalieri and the whimsical ‘Fontana delle Tette’ (or ‘Fountain of the Breasts’), which used to dispense wine instead of water on special occasions in the past – white from one spout and red from the other! The Sile River is not only a natural feature but also a real tourist attraction, due to its clear waters; the city’s canal network is further enhanced by the Canale dei Buranelli, one of the most picturesque corners of the city. Treviso offers many options for lunch, including the restaurant which is attributed with creating the original recipe of the best loved Italian dessert in the world, the incomparable Tiramisù: Le Beccherie in Piazza Ancilotto. Rich in history, the city has also been significantly shaped over the past fifty years by the economic success of the Benetton Group. The company has built a creative residency called Fabrica in the north, designed by Japanese architect Tadao Ando.
Next on the agenda are the hills of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G. zone. Cross the Piave River at Ponte della Priula to arrive in Susegana, from where you should take the road to Castello di San Salvatore. Originally an impregnable medieval fortress in the Middle Ages, the Castle was later transformed into a noble residence during the Renaissance period and has welcomed notable figures from the realms of culture and the arts. Now a venue for private events and ceremonies, Castello di San Salvatore also provides lodging accommodation within its age-old ‘borgo’, including suites, apartments and a spectacular penthouse suite on the very top floor. It is ideally placed for visiting the UNESCO World Heritage sites of Valdobbiadene and Conegliano, taking in a stop in the glorious centre of Conegliano, birthplace of artist Giovan Battista Cima, and the suggestive Molinetto della Croda watermill in Refrontolo. For dinner, the Da Gigetto restaurant in Miane is a true gastronomic institution nestled in the Prosecco hills.
The following day, your first destination is Vittorio Veneto, a city which played a key role in a decisive battle during World War I. Focus on the historic heart of Serravalle, which preserves Vittorio’s ancient heritage. After driving along the motorway and passing the Fadalto ridge, take the exit for a detour that encompasses a panorama of the atmospheric Lake Santa Croce. Unlike natural or artificial lakes, Santa Croce was formed by a landslide that obstructed the flow of the Piave River downstream, creating the Sella del Fadalto mountain pass and redirecting the river through Valbelluna. You will then arrive in Belluno, where you can stroll through the principal town squares, including Piazza del Duomo, Piazza dei Martiri (formerly called the Campitello), Piazza Santo Stefano and Piazza del Mercato, as well as the Ponte della Vittoria bridge. If time permits, you can also enter the Civic Museum and the MiM, an Interactive Migration Museum. Those with a sweet tooth should head straight for Pasticceria Bellunese in Piazza del Mercato, run by the celebrated Deon family of pastry chefs.
Just on the outskirts of Belluno is Villa di Modolo, a prime example of a villa seamlessly integrated into the grand Venetian tradition, which now hosts private events and ceremonies. It features a series of solar diagrams for time measurement dating back to 1875, created by Count Francesco Miari Fulcis, a professor of geodesy at the University of Padua.
Continuing alongside the Piave River towards Feltre, you will arrive at Villa di Dussan in the municipality of Santa Giustina, overlooking the Belluno Dolomites National Park. This small borgo, originally an agricultural estate belonging to the da Camino family, lords of Treviso and Belluno, has been repurposed for hospitality purposes. The property, still inhabited by its owners, provides rooms in the 18th-century villa, the old frescoed granary, the bailiff’s house, and the casera (a traditional Alpine building) located on the road leading to Nevegal, now popular for winter sports’ activities. Historical residence Villa degli Azzoni Avogadro is also to be found in Santa Giustina, in the locality of Bivai. It was constructed in the 17th century on the remnants of an ancient castle, with three triangular towers connected by a large battlement wall. The Castle was subjected to repeated assaults and destruction, experiencing significant devastation in many instances. It was particularly damaged during the siege by Ezzelino da Romano while fighting the Teuponi lords of Bivai. Today, the Villa welcomes guests for overnight stays, weddings and private events.
As you continue towards Feltre, you will come across the beloved Bar Bianco in Busche, which has been a favourite spot and must-stop destination for the people of Belluno and passersby alike for over fifty years, and is now under the management of Lattebusche. Upon reaching Feltre, an antique walled town, take your time to enjoy its Piazza Maggiore and Palazzo della Ragione, which houses the Teatro de la Sena theatre where Carlo Goldoni began his career, plus the Modern Art Gallery, the Alboino Castle tower and, last but by no means least, the town’s main beer-related attraction, the Pedavena restaurant and brewery. Sampling the locally brewed beer, produced here since the late 1800s, is a must – and be sure to try the signature dish, the classic Pedavena ‘toasted sandwich with Bovis’.
Leaving Feltre, follow the course of the Piave River, skirting the Prosecco hills on the Valdobbiadene side, and making a detour at Pederobba for a crucial stop in Possagno, the birthplace of sculptor Antonio Canova. Here you can enter the fascinating Gypsotheca Museum with its collection of plaster casts of the sculptures that the artist later created in marble, which forms part of the museum complex along with Canova’s birthplace and library. Continue southwards to Asolo, the jewel in the Treviso foothills. It is definitely time well spent if you elect to stay here for a couple of days, exploring this picturesque town at a leisurely pace, for the very setting encourages a slower pace of life. There is much to see: the 13th-century Rocca fortress that inspired poet Robert Browning, the Castle of Queen Cornaro, the home of Eleonora Duse (who loved it so much that she chose it for her burial place), the Garden of Villa Freya in the sumptuous residence of English writer Freya Stark – not to mention the fine wineries locally, where you can taste Asolo Prosecco, the smallest denomination of the production of sparkling wine in the northeastern part of Italy. With regard to accommodation, we can propose a historical residence that is practically perfect. Villa Il Galero was built in 1696 and is situated directly below the Rocca of Asolo. This authentic villa is nestled in the lush greenery of a garden park with secular trees and plants, featuring a panoramic swimming pool and offering a range of rooms, suites and apartments for guests. If you can bear to tear yourself away from this stunning location, the time has come to move on to the final leg of our journey, namely Castelfranco Veneto. This walled city, with its well-preserved fortifications, was the birthplace of Giorgio Zorzi, better known as High Renaissance painter Giorgione. It is possible to enter his house-museum and admire the Castelfranco Altarpiece by Giorgione in the Cathedral, before strolling round Villa Bolasco Park, spotting the impressive 43-metre-high ‘Torre Franca’ tower and entering the charming historic centre. The final rendezvous of this ambitious itinerary sees us visiting Villa Caprera in nearby Castello di Godego. This 18th-century country manor, surrounded by a six-hectare park crossed by two streams, the Muson and the Musonello, is owned by the Santi family. Known for their catering capabilities and events’ expertise, the owners have transformed their home into a haven of hospitality. Before bidding farewell to Castelfranco, savour one final sweet treat purchased at Pasticceria Fraccaro, and experience first-hand their expertise in baked goods with a mouth-watering panettone or – possibly even better – take a slice or two of traditional Venetian focaccia home with you.
