Just hearing the name of the celebrated 16th-century architect, Palladio, is sufficient inspiration to conjure up images of following an artistic itinerary through the Veneto region, in particular around the Vicenza area, where so many of the villas he designed for the aristocrats and wealthy bourgeoisie of the time are concentrated. Remarkably, most of these historic buildings are still inhabited and maintained by their original families today, having withstood the test of wars, fires and other adversities over the course of centuries. These villas are open to visitors, often without the need to travel far between one residence and another. History buffs who are passionate about the story of the Serenissima Republic of Venice – at its peak during Palladio’s time – can discover the wonders of Vicenza’s historic centre, a jewel of a city with its Teatro Olimpico, also designed by Palladio and acclaimed as the world’s oldest indoor theatre, its Basilica Palladiana, Piazza dei Signori, and many other attractions, including the famous sanctuary of the Madonna di Monte Berico, which is perched on the hilltop overlooking the city. In Vicenza, you can further explore some of the excellence associated with the craftsmanship of the historic centre and its province, especially in the intricate and skilled craft of goldsmithing. Daniela Vettori’s shop in Piazza dei Signori, which is included in the Wellmade circuit that highlights the best artisans in Italy, is an absolute must-see. There are also many gastronomic delights to be tasted in Vicenza, which is the home of local speciality “bacalà alla vicentina”, a traditional dish cooked using dried stockfish. In nearby Sandrigo, just 7 km away, the highly respected Confraternity of Bacalà actively continues to preserve its culinary heritage and promote the authentic recipe. If you want to try this delicious dish, the Confraternity’s website proposes a rich list of restaurants and dining establishments, such as the historic Palmerino in Sandrigo, where you can taste it for yourself. With all these tempting distractions, one could all too easily become sidetracked and forget the main reason tourists choose to visit Vicenza, which would be a great pity!
Let us therefore retrace our steps and return to the Palladian villas, starting in the very heart of Vicenza at Palazzo Valmarana Braga. Designed by Palladio in 1565 at the behest of Count Alvise Valmarana, this villa also offers accommodation within the property. Staying overnight is indeed the perfect way to fully experience the Palazzo’s historic grandeur, with its beautifully restored façade, its staircase adorned with statues and busts, and the grand interiors featuring Murano chandeliers and paintings by Giulio Carpioni. Just a short distance from the train station, you’ll find the stunning Villa Valmarana ai Nani. Its fame is not, however, connected to Palladio, given that it was constructed in the late 17th century, but to the 13 rooms of frescoes painted by Giambattista and Giandomenico Tiepolo in around 1757. Opened daily as a museum, it also has a bookshop and a café. Right behind it stands the harmonious design of what is perhaps the most famous villa created by Palladio: Villa Almerico Capra, or “La Rotonda”, as it is also known. Commissioned by Paolo Almerico and completed under the direction of Vincenzo Scamozzi for the Capra brothers, who acquired the building at the end of the 16th century, a visit to La Rotonda is essential. Our next stop takes us to a historical residence just outside Vicenza, which also features frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo and draws visitors due to its monumental park, created in the mid-19th century and based on a project by Milanese architect Balzaretti. The interiors of Villa Zileri Motterle are likewise open to the public, with the itinerary including access to the ‘piano nobile’ first floor containing Tiepolo’s frescoes, as well as to the ancient monumental park, the evocative vaulted room decorated with shells, aptly named the “Grotta delle Conchiglie” (“Shell Grotto”), and the 17th-century Chapel of San Francesco.
Heading into the Agno valley, our excursion leads us to the next two historical residences on our Vicenza itinerary. The first, in Castelgomberto, is named Villa da Schio. Although Palladian in style, it was built about a century after Palladio’s death and is based on a design attributed to architect Antonio Pizzocaro. It features an 18th-century park and an Italian garden boasting a series of statues mostly created by Orazio Marinali, one of the leading sculptors of the time, and other artists. There is an interactive app that allows users to learn about and engage with the statues in a playful and educational manner. Villa da Schio offers several residences for medium-term rentals in addition to organising guided tours and providing the possibility of renting the property for ceremonies and special events. Villa Trissino Marzotto is located in nearby Trissino. Its history dates back to the early 12th century, when it was established as a castle for the Trissino family, later becoming a summer country residence. Since 1951, it has been owned by the Marzotto family, who offer visits of the residence and its park, where there are trees over two centuries old, by prior reservation. Heading south towards Lonigo, drive through the town centre to reach the village of Bagnolo, where another villa designed by Palladio in 1542 is situated. This is Villa Pisani Bonetti, which houses an international collection of contemporary art. In addition to this cultural visit, it also offers a memorable culinary experience at its restaurant, Osteria del Guà, with dishes that embrace all the exquisite ingredients of the local territory and Mediterranean Italian cuisine. The final stage of our itinerary around Vicenza sees us heading north to two esteemed towns: Bassano del Grappa and Thiene.
In Bassano, after admiring the famous wooden bridge of Ponte degli Alpini, originally designed by Palladio in 1569, and enjoying a taste of the unique Mezzoemezzo aperitif specialty served at the Grapperia Nardini distillery, you should visit Villa Angarano. The Baroque-style central building stands between two ‘barchesse’ or farm buildings designed by Palladio on commission for owner Giacomo Angarano and constructed in 1548. After touring the villa, we recommend you plan to stay for a wine tasting, as the estate also operates as a winery specialising in regional wines certified as DOC Breganze. From here, you can continue towards Nove, known for its celebrated ceramics, and Marostica, a delightful town at the foot of the Asiago Plateau, where the legend of the Human Chess Game is reenacted every two years. The presence of two medieval castles and the fortified walls hark back to the ancient origins of the region. Conclude your journey by exploring the Castello di Thiene, located in the centre of the city. A pivotal example of the evolution of Venetian villas, this mid-15th-century building, set within a monumental park, combines all the characteristics of a castle with the features of a villa. It incorporates elements of Palladian design, Venetian-style palazzos, and a ‘casa-fondaco’ (meaning ‘house/warehouse’), serving as both a residence and a commercial space at the same time. The tour has recently been enriched with interactive multimedia installations, adding a modern touch while walking through the opulently furnished and decorated rooms, ending in the unique and exemplary 18th-century stables. The Castle is open all year round, is available for overnight stays, and can be hired for special events. Returning to the subject of world-renowned artisans, as you head back in the direction of Bassano we also highly recommend you make a detour to drop in on Stylnove, a famous ceramics company which combines the traditions of Nove with contemporary design.
Back in Vicenza, art print enthusiasts should not miss the opportunity of seeing the Busato Lithography workshop in the town centre, where a permanent exhibition of the historical archive of the printing house can be visited on the first floor. Giancarlo Busato, the owner, continues a tradition based on artisanal techniques of artistic printing. There is no ‘better’ time to visit the province of Vicenza: it can be visited all year round, although it is perhaps best to avoid the hottest periods and busy times like the periods of the ’Vicenza Oro’ Jewellery Boutique Show, when it can become much more difficult to find accommodation in the city.
