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From Volterra to Maremma across the Etruscan Coast

Sea, rolling hills, vineyards and archaeological treasures… This itinerary begins in Volterra and takes us deep into the heart of Tuscany’s Maremma region, from where we will eventually ascend to the foothills of Mount Amiata, passing through the charming ‘Etruscan Coast’, as it is often called. This part of the world has an enviably mild climate for most of the year and is pleasantly temperate even in winter, provided the Maestrale winds don’t blow too strongly. Immersed in a landscape of maritime pines, olive groves and cypress trees – as immortalised by Giosuè Carducci’s iconic ‘San Guido’ poem in his ‘Rime Nuove’ collection – this route will also guide you through a multiplication of vineyards in Bolgheri and Grosseto, where internationally celebrated wines are produced. Travelling at a leisurely pace, you will find yourselves bathed in a unique light that softens the rugged features of the Tuscan landscape and highlights its harmonious beauty. On the horizon, you will be able to catch glimpses of some of the larger islands of the archipelago, first Elba and then Giglio, before discovering the stunning Argentario promontory, which you will bypass via Grosseto just before reaching the Amiata slopes. The ancient volcano is now best known for the autumnal fruits it offers, from mushrooms to geographically protected GPI chestnuts. It goes without saying that this is a magnificent trip, as it combines visits to historical homes with stops at prestigious wineries, memorable dining experiences and opportunities to purchase local specialities and handcrafted items made by Tuscany’s finest artisans. Buckle up, and let the tour begin!
Volterra is a walled town with about ten thousand residents, but its historical and artistic legacy rivals that of a much larger city. The Etruscans, who lived here as early as the 7th century BC, have left quite a legacy behind them, with significant landmarks such as the Porta all’Arco and Porta Diana, while the Romans contributed a theatre, which is still used for performances during the summer season. The medieval period bequeathed us the Palazzo dei Priori and tower houses, while nearby there are religious buildings like the Duomo, the Baptistery and the Santa Maria Hospital. For lovers of Etruscan art, the Guarnacci Museum is a must-see, as it houses the most extensive collection of Etruscan urns in the world. The Civic Art Gallery at Palazzo Minucci-Solaini showcases valuable paintings, and the Alabaster Museum is dedicated to the town’s ancient alabaster craft, Volterra being famously dubbed by Gabriele D’Annunzio as the ‘city of wind and stone’. For those looking to take home a unique souvenir, we recommend stopping by the Cooperativa Artieri Alabastro in the main square, where you can purchase works by local artisans. If you’re in the market for a local delicacy, the town has a strong reputation for its Pecorino delle Balze Volterrane, a protected PDO/DOP cheese that is sold, for example, at the Lischeto Organic Farm. Be sure to pick up some extra virgin olive oil and recrystallised Volterra salt while you’re there. Just a few kilometres from the town centre is the first historic residence on our itinerary, Villa Giorgi Viti. Built on ancient Etruscan-Roman foundations, this Villa has evolved over centuries into its current form. Initially owned by the Giorgi family, it was acquired by Giuseppe Benedetto Viti in 1850, who added a Neo-Gothic façade overlooking the garden and incorporated the ancient tower into the design. In addition to being a venue for private events, concerts and ceremonies, it is also possible to visit the Villa, upon request. Before leaving Volterra, take time to have lunch at Ristorante Enoteca Del Duca, which specialises in local traditional dishes.

As you drive along State Road 68, you will pass by the salt flats and the town of Ponteginori, before arriving at Castello Ginori di Querceto, where our second historical residence is situated. Perched on a hill, the castle has a rich history closely tied to the Marchesi Ginori Lisci dynasty, the same family that is behind the world-renowned porcelain brand, Ginori 1735, now owned by the luxury French group Kering. The estate around the castle boasts 1,300 hectares of unspoiled forest, 700 hectares of farmland and 16 hectares of vineyards. Visitors can fully immerse themselves in this unique setting by staying at one of the ten apartments, with a range of accommodation options offered for 2 to 8 people; these holiday homes can be rented for a week or a minimum of three nights during high season. The La Locanda del Sole restaurant is located in the village square, while guests have access to a swimming pool surrounded by olive trees in the proximity and can partake in tastings of Marchesi Ginori Lisci wines and extra virgin olive oil from the Dispensa del Castello.
Continue on in the direction of Cecina, where there are many attractions to be discovered close to the sea. First and foremost is Casale Marittimo, memorable for its concentric rings of stone buildings encircled by two medieval walls, and justly recognised as one of Italy’s ‘Most Beautiful Villages’. Explore the Etruscan tombs at the ‘Grotte Gialle’ (thus named due to the distinctive yellowish colour of the cave rock formations and tufa limestone), with their distinctive rabbit ear-shaped design. Then at Vada, you will come to our third residence, an agritourism site called Villa Graziani, whose main building was constructed in 1841, reflecting the popular Romantic Eclecticism of that era. The Villa provides hospitality, offering twelve double rooms, including three period suites and six apartments located in outbuildings dotted across the large park. One of the highlights is its Enoteca Graziani restaurant, housed in the former stables, which proposes traditional Tuscan dishes made with ingredients produced at the farm. Before leaving Vada for our next destination and heading south, take a detour to the ‘Spiagge Bianche’, often referred to as the tropical ‘Caribbean of Tuscany’, although the colour of their striking white beaches is actually the result of years of calcium carbonate discharges from the nearby Solvay plant.

You are now entering the Bolgheri region, which produces some of the world’s finest red wines, even though the denomination itself is relatively small, with just 1,370 hectares of vineyards. Despite its reduced size, the area has gained international recognition thanks to successful labels like Sassicaia, produced at Tenuta San Guido, which initiated the Bordeaux-style wine-making trend along the Tuscan coast. Enotourism is becoming an increasingly important business for the wineries of Bolgheri, Donoratico and Castagneto Carducci, with top-tier estates like Guado al Tasso (owned by Marchesi Antinori) and Ornellaia, which is the jewel in the crown of the Frescobaldi Group. The vision of the picturesque, cypress-lined avenue leading up to Bolgheri is simply unforgettable, but the true cultural highlight of Castagneto Carducci is its castle. The history of Castello di Castagneto Carducci is deeply intertwined with the Counts of Gherardesca family, who have owned it for an incredible 34 generations ever since its construction in the year 1000. One of the family’s most celebrated personalities is Count Ugolino, whose tragic tale was immortalised by Dante Alighieri, and indeed a statue to commemorate him greets visitors upon their arrival. The castle itself overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea, offering one of the most stunning panoramas of the Maremma landscape. As well as providing guided tours, the property is available for the organisation of memorable events and ceremonies, its elegant halls, terraces and gardens providing a delightfully idyllic setting.
Your route now follows the coastline, passing through more beautiful towns and villages such as Suvereto and Val di Cornia, where emerging wine regions like the renowned Petra Winery, designed by famed architect Mario Botta, is located. Castiglione della Pescaia is your next destination, home to the luxury resort L’Andana, which features the Michelin-starred Trattoria by Enrico Bartolini. Like Petra, the resort is owned by the Terra Moretti Group, the same company behind the Bellavista and Contadi Castaldi sparkling wines from Franciacorta. When you reach Marina di Grosseto, leave the coast and head inland to Grosseto, the capital of the Maremma area, where we suggest you visit the Cathedral of San Lorenzo and stroll through Piazza Dante. Here you will find the unique monument entitled ‘Il Canapone’, which depicts Grand Duke Leopoldo II crushing the head of a serpent, an allegory of the Maremma people’s victory over malaria in the 19th century. Similarly well worth a visit is the Le Clarisse Cultural Centre with its four museums run by the Grosseto Foundation of Culture.

For those planning to spend a few days exploring Grosseto, the Maremma Regional Park and the nearby beaches, we highly recommend Razza del Casalone as an ideal base. This charming historical residence and agritourism dates back to the 1700s and features a two-hectare park and a swimming pool. On the last leg of our trip in the direction of Siena, be sure to include a visit of the Roselle Archaeological Park, where you can explore the most significant Etruscan and Roman remains in the Maremma region, including an Etruscan necropolis and the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre.
After your visit, continue on along the dual carriageway towards Siena as far as the exit at Paganico. Montecucco is the final wine denomination on our itinerary. It is also one of the most interesting in the whole of Tuscany in terms of its quality for price ratio, given that it lies on the border of Montalcino while not carrying the Brunello label. You will now begin to gain altitude as you pass through Arcidosso, a medieval village at the base of Mount Amiata, and Santa Fiora, where the Mercury Mining Museum recounts the mining history of this area. Nowadays, the economy of Mount Amiata is no longer linked to mining, but rather to agriculture (which does not necessitate such deep excavating) and high-end leatherwork, with a small production district that supplies top brands like Gucci and Prada. We end our journey in Piancastagnaio, a key town for leather goods in Amiata, by visiting our final historical residence: an ancient and well-preserved 13th-century convent that now belongs to the Ricci Barbini family. The Convento San Bartolomeo has been transformed into a luxurious relais, offering 15 guest rooms. It represents a perfect venue for private events and ceremonies, and welcomes groups and individual visitors, free of charge, by prior reservation.